Looking for places to stay in Kent? Want a restaurant-with-rooms in West Malling? Read our review of Amano, and check out more places to eat in Kent here…

Amano in a nutshell

Amano (‘by hand’) is a lively and sophisticated Italian restaurant-with-rooms in the pretty Kent market town of West Malling. Other than the carefully crafted food, the main draw is a swish new orangery (where dinner is served) and its seriously cool sloping glass roof.

The vibe

Trendy, chic and modern, with black panelling, subdued blues and greys, plus bursts of green from hairy ferns dotted throughout. That glass ceiling lends itself to brilliantly bright breakfasts, as well as atmospheric evenings – it’s like eating al fresco, stars and all, only without chilly breezes. Amano’s popularity is such that it’s buzzing from 6pm, not least at the smart marble-topped bar near the entrance. Behind this is the kitchen, staffed almost entirely by Italians. Below is a purpose-built cellar, where fresh pasta is made every day, while upstairs are a handful of bedrooms.

Which room should I book at Amano?

All four bedrooms are petite but comfortable with a supply of homemade biscotti, Hypnos mattresses, slick shower rooms and flat-screen TVs. The decor – classy timber panelling, muted colours, no fuss – matches that of the restaurant downstairs, but with the addition of heritage radiators and original sash windows. Pick the biggest, Sophia, for its roll-top bath and superking-size bed. Being above a restaurant, you can’t expect absolute silence in the evenings but staff are sympathetic to the issue, and quick to respond (when we mentioned being able to hear the restaurant door shutting the problem was swiftly resolved with a sturdy doorstop).

The food and drink

The menu is traditionally Italian in format (think starter, a small plate of pasta, meat or fish, then dessert) but, being in Britain, there’s no pressure to order all four courses. You could settle for just one, larger, serving of pasta. But that would be ill-advised; you’ll want as much time as possible to soak up the vivacious atmosphere. Linger over cake-like focaccia and buttery nocellara olives, paper-thin rose veal with parmesan shavings and al dente asparagus, perhaps a bowl of thick-cut pappardelle (you can taste the egg yolk) tossed with a glossy wild mushroom and truffle sauce, with a side of multi-coloured tomato salad. Then, feast on whole, juicy sea bream stuffed with lemon and rosemary before ending with a rich, six-layered tiramisu.

As for drinks, pre-dinner cocktails include a Crodino spritz (Crodino, that wonderfully savoury and bitter aperitif, is hard to find outside Italy) and Il Bacio, made with Italian Sabatini gin, St Germain, limoncello and egg white. There are nine different Italian gins to try in all, and the lengthy wine list is exclusively Italian. A memorable glass of crimson-coloured Caranto Veneto Pinot Noir, confidently matched to both lamb and bream by a knowledgeable waiter, managed to be both buttery smooth and refreshing.

Breakfast

Eating in an orangery so bathed in sunlight makes for a rejuvenating start to the day. Amano takes pride in its breakfasts, offering everything from poached eggs (they wobble on top of focaccia instead of muffins) to cured ham with whole burrata, and homemade granola with vanilla panna cotta. There are smoothies made with coconut milk or Greek yogurt, too, and exciting fruit juices – try fresh mint, apple and ginger.

What else can foodies do?

Amano’s sister restaurant, The Swan, is just up the road and its bar is a great place to start an evening. When a new mixologist joins, they’re encouraged to add their own concoction to the cocktail list – Sweet Caroline, for example, is a heady mix of cinnamon rum, cognac, maraschino and grapefruit bitters.

Is it family friendly?

Everyone’s welcome, and families are just as present as couples at the restaurant, but it might be a bit of a squeeze to fit a cot in the bedrooms (bar Sophia).

olive tip

Co-owner Nick Levantis is a friendly face, ready and waiting to suggest the best walking tour of West Malling (including the tumbling cascade in front of St Mary’s Abbey, once painted by Turner).

Words by Charlotte Morgan

Photographs by John Carey

Book your stay at Amano here

amanorestaurant.co.uk

Looking for the best British seaside holidays? Need a seaside break? Read our guide to the best British seaside holidays, from Devon to North Norfolk.

Deal, Kent

The genteel coastal town of Deal, on the Kent coast, has gone hip in recent years, attracting artists and second-homers from Hackney and Dalston, who can bomb down to “Dealston” in just over an hour thanks to a fast train service from St Pancras.

Sleep: The Rose is a renovated Victorian inn on Deal’s high street. Downstairs is a bar, restaurant and lounge full of bright vintage furniture, while upstairs are eight bedrooms, each painted in a unique bold hue, inspired by the bright beach balls and deckchairs of the local seaside, just a few steps away.

Breakfast is impressive at The Rose. There’s a relaxed vibe in the morning, with magazine and papers piled high and the menu chalked on a blackboard. Vegetarians can fill up on roast mushrooms, oregano, goats cheese and toast, while the Nordically inclined can opt for the Scandi breakfast plate –smoked salmon with avocado, egg, dill, whipped cream cheese and toast.

Eat: The Dealston vibe continues in the kitchen at The Rose, offering British comfort food with a fresh Aussie feel to many of the dishes, like chicken schnitzel jazzed up with fennel slaw, and a creative veggie option of violet artichokes, white beans and dandelion and goats curd. Most of the produce comes from local Deal businesses, including sausages from the Black Pig Butcher across the street, fish from Jenkins Fishmonger and veg from the town’s Bartlett & White greengrocer.

Stop for brunch, coffee or cake at Black Douglas Coffee House, for ice cream at 1960s-style Deal Beach Parlour or for fish and chips at Middle Street Fish Bar. For pan-fried skate wing with brown butter, sherry vinegar and cockles there’s French bistro Frog and Scot.

Do: Deal’s shingle beach, fronted by multi-coloured fisherman’s cottages, is five minutes’ walk from the hotel; walk to Walmer Castle at one end and visit Deal Pier on your way back.

Read our full review of The Rose here

Babbacome, Devon

Babbacombe is the kind of place Agatha Christie might have sent a recuperating character to: there’s Devon sunshine, blue seas, charming Oddicombe beach (made private by the shelter of a steep, tree-lined cliff) and even an art deco funicular railway linking the beach to Babbacombe’s pretty clifftop green. Standing sentinel over all of this is the Cary Arms, squeezed inside the curve of the bay directly above the beach.

Sleep: The Cary Arms dates back to the 1800s and feels custom-designed to embrace the view. Bedrooms (some dog-friendly) have a fresh, coastal feel. If there are more of you than two, rent one of the adjoining blue-and-white fisherman’s cottages that come with log fires and fancy bathrooms.

Or, for a romantic weekend, book one of the inn’s beach huts. Inside these duplex suites is a private sitting room and bathroom with a mezzanine bedroom upstairs and nothing but the sparkling English Channel in front.

Eat: This must be the most tranquil place for a pint in Devon; the view stretches to Portland Bill in Dorset and takes in the pink-soil cliffs of the English Riviera and an old pier where both seals and locals like to fish.

The panorama changes depending on where you sit – tables inside the conservatory and the circular ‘captain’s table’ outside are particularly lovely. Also outside is a series of terraces separated by rock gardens while, inside, it’s all log fire cosiness, with tables pointing seawards and shiny nautical brassware.

For breakfast, try grilled kippers or the Devon full English, for lunch a Brixham battered fish and chips with crushed peas. Dinner centres around fish – pick one of the chef’s specials for the freshest catch, delicately poached John Dory, perhaps, or Lyme Bay lobster. The wine list is extensive, as is the local gin selection which includes Black Dog, Wicked Wolf Exmoor and Salcombe.

Do: Walk along Oddicombe beach via a wooden walkway to reach the funicular (look out for crabs skirting the rock pools below) and catch a ride up the cliffs.

Book your stay at The Cary Arms here

For more information see The Cary Arms or visitdevon.co.uk

Aberdovey, Snowdonia

Tell someone you’re going to Aberdovey and the reply tends to be “Abu Dhabi? Lucky you, off to the sun.” It’s not so much visitors in the Arabian Gulf who are fortunate, however, but those who make a beeline for this picturesque estuary village in Snowdonia, on the west coast of Wales.

Whether in bright sunshine or under dishwater skies, the coastline always seems picture-perfect. For walkers and dog-owners there are miles of wind-whipped sand and dunes to wander (often deserted outside the peak summer months) and, directly behind the village, rolling green hills leading off towards the sky. You can try your hand at all manner of watersports. And Aberdovey itself is a creative little place, with art galleries, cafés and a deli.

Sleep: For a mixed generation get-together, book one of four self-catering houses at the Trefeddian Hotel (choose between two more expensive ‘Seascape’ houses – newer, shinier and right beside the hotel – or two more affordable properties set just apart from the hotel in a row of stately old Victorian terraces). A family-friendly retreat with modern touches, the hotel makes the most of its quiet, out-of-town position; many of the hotel rooms and some of the cottages have balconies offering uninterrupted views across Cardigan Bay.

Self-catering guests can use all the hotel facilities, which include a great children’s games room and swimming pool. There is also a restaurant on-site so, if you’re staying in one of the cottages, you can eat both in or (if you have babysitting-willing grandparents in tow) out.

Eat: Aberdovey has a fish restaurant, pubs and a decent fish and chip shop, but it’s worth booking a table at the Salt Marsh Kitchen in neighbouring Tywyn. This small bistro is particularly good on fish and local meat; check the specials board for adeptly-cooked scallops, mussels or lobster. Or, for fine dining, drive half an hour around the coast to Michelin-starred Ynyshir Hall for chef Gareth Ward’s elegant tasting menus which focus on ingredient led, flavour driven, Japanese-influenced cooking.

Do: It’s all about the shoreline here, whether you want to paint it, sail it or walk it. If you really don’t want to step outside, hunker down at the Trefeddian with a Welsh afternoon tea: buttered bara brith, homemade Welsh cakes and tea or coffee.

Get great deals on Trefeddian Hotel here

Self-catering rates at the Trefeddian Hotel start from £375 for eight people for seven nights. More info: visitsnowdonia.info

Elie, Fife

Imagine Cornwall, only quieter. Much of The Kingdom of Fife, just over the Forth Bridge from Edinburgh, is neat farmland and its coastline is peppered with sand and old stone villages. Harbours team with fishing trawlers unloading creels of langoustine and lobster, and lanes are lined with fancy farm shops and Italian ice-cream cafés (check out Jannettas in St Andrews): in summer Fife feels like a giant picnic hamper.

In the heart of it, in the village of Elie, is The Ship Inn. A local institution, it’s had a revamp with an upstairs restaurant and six contemporary bedrooms. In the pub, dogs lie in front of a roaring fire, seafaring photos hang on the walls and a beer garden just above the beach is perfect for a sundowner (try a local Eden Mill gin and tonic). This is old-fashioned bucket-and-spade territory. Go cockling on the shore, build sandcastles, tuck into a pub barbecue or walk out along Fife’s Coastal Path.

Sleep: The Ship’s bedrooms are decked out in fresh, coastal style with a smattering of junk-shop finds. Bedside tables are made from stacks of old suitcases. Walls are clad with aquamarine tongue-and-groove and the seaside vibe is accentuated by old wooden oars, rope ladders and glass buoys. Contemporary comfort comes from roll-top baths, monsoon showers, flat-screen TVs, espresso machines and free WiFi. From the window seat of the top-floor ‘Admiral’ room you can gaze down on dog-walkers weaving across the village’s broad, sandy beach.

Eat: Famous for its fish and chips, the inn champions Scottish seafood and local shellfish (the crab, lobster and langoustine are landed at nearby Pittenweem). You can tuck into pub grub, bangers and mash-style, or opt for smoked mackerel pâté with toasted sourdough followed by breaded lemon sole with Jersey Royal potatoes, asparagus, peas and chives.

Do: Watch a game of cricket from the beer garden. The inn is the only pub in Britain to have a cricket team with a pitch on the beach; this year’s cricket festival takes place from 26 – 28 July.

Check out available rooms at The Ship Inn here

Double rooms at The Ship Inn start from £100, b&b. More info: foodfromfife.co.uk

Isle of Wight

Brits have been holidaying in the Isle of Wight’s resorts since Victorian times and its sun-soaked charm remains. On the island’s southern tip you can stay in a hotel (The Royal) that the Michelin Guide has recommended every year since it was first published in 1911. But skip over to Newport or Cowes and you’ll find ambitious young restaurateurs using island produce in modern sleek recipes.

Sleep: Afternoon tea served on manicured lawns and a lofty dining room that looks as if it once doubled as a ballroom show that The Royal hasn’t lost its Victorian feel. Bedrooms enjoy the same ambience and most are painted sky blue to complement the views of Ventnor Bay, a five-minute walk away.

At the opposite end of the scale, The Little Gloster, in Cowes, takes inspiration from co-owner Ben Cooke’s Danish grandmother. Set against The Solent, a stretch of water usually peppered with sailboats, it looks like an unfussy little bungalow from the outside, but inside, its clean, white interiors are illuminated, Scandinavian-style, by candlelight. The three suites here are chic but cosy; lounge on squashy cushions on your veranda and watch the yachts.

Eat: The Royal’s traditional dining room belies the kitchen’s clever, delicate cooking. Try whipped goat’s cheese with beetroot sponge, or roasted pollock with fricassée of spring vegetables and pea velouté. For a more modern menu, head to Thompson’s in Newport.

Chef Robert Thompson’s first solo venture, you can watch him in his tiny open-plan kitchen producing dishes such as soy marinated hens egg with local asparagus, toasted sesame seed mayonnaise and pickled ginger. Not surprisingly, The Little Gloster offers a subtly Scandinavian-inspired menu – try house-cured gravadlax with sprouted spelt bread, or catch-of-the-day with tempura coriander.

Do: Take in the beauty of Tennyson Down (the poet lived on the island for over a decade) on a walk from The Needles to Freshwater Bay, stopping off at Dimbola Lodge for fat scones with jam and cream.

Click here to book your stay at The Royal

Double rooms at The Royal start from £195, b&b and at The Little Gloster from £130, b&b. Return vehicle ferry crossings from Southampton to East Cowes cost from £48.50 (redfunnel.co.uk). More info: visitisleofwight.co.uk

North Norfolk

With its cinematic beaches and big skies, the North Norfolk coast has long drawn walkers, cocklers, twitchers and bucket-and-spaders. But, increasingly, visitors are lured there by food. Norfolk’s north-west is especially flavour-intense. Thornham is home to the Orange Tree (Norfolk Dining Pub of the Year 2018), tiny Titchwell has its award-winning Manor (more on that later).

At mast-clanking Brancaster Staithe, the freshest mussels and local smoked fish are stuffed into baguettes at the Crab Hut. And, amongst the pretty flint-and-brick cottages of Burnham Market, you can buy potted shrimp from Gurneys Fishmonger and Norfolk pork pies from Humble Pie Deli.

Sleep: Handsome redbrick Titchwell Manor gazes across the marshes to The Wash. Formerly a farmhouse, built by Oxford’s Magdalen College in 1897, it’s now a smart 31-room hotel that marries Victorian stateliness with bold, modern brio. The manor guestrooms are a riot of statement wallpaper, vintage pieces and acid colours. There are calmer blue-white or neutral retreats in the converted outbuildings, arranged around the herb garden; best is The Potting Shed, a standalone hideaway with log burner, veranda and roll-top bath.

Eat: Head chef Eric Snaith, whose family bought Titchwell Manor when he was a boy, learned on the job. Like its rooms, Titchwell’s kitchen caters for all tastes. Robust bar staples in the hotel’s Eating Rooms offer counterpoint to the Conservatory’s inventive menus and monthly supper clubs (think everything from Crab Shack night to a Norfolk asparagus celebration).

In nearby Thornham, Eric’s Fish & Chips, opened by Snaith in 2015, elevates the old coastal faves: sustainable fish in beer batter, IPA pickled onions and pineapple fritters.

Do: Hire binoculars and explore Titchwell Marsh RSPB Reserve – trails run alongside the wetlands to the beach and state-of-the-art hides. In summer, look for marsh harriers gliding over the reeds and avocets on the lagoons.

Book your stay at Titchwell Manor here

Double rooms at Titchwell Manor start from £130, b&b, or £205, dinner, b&b. More info: visitnorthnorfolk.com

Isle of Mull, Scotland

Sleep: With undisturbed views of Craignure Bay, Pennygate Lodge has six cosy bedrooms, each one peppered with unique touches, from antique furniture to artwork from the owners’ collection. Take breakfast, dinner and drinks in the traditional dining room and make the most of the island gin selection, from Shetland Reel to Misty Isle.

Eat: There can’t be many restaurants in Britain where you have to hail a ferry to get there by flashing a red card from the opposite shore. But The Boathouse on Ulva, just off Scotland’s Isle of Mull, is just such a place. Order the Fisherman’s Catch, a shellfish platter complete with salty oysters, fresh langoustines and squat lobsters. If seafood is your catch, head for lunch at The Creel and dig into Isle of Mull scallop and Stornoway black pudding rolls. Ninth Wave marries sustainably sourced seafood with unusual flavours and ingredients, so expect warm crab soufflé-style cheesecake starter and a sarsaparilla cordial and chocolate cake pudding.

Do: Go for a bracing wall along Calgary Bay stopping off at Calgary Café and Gallery for quiches, warm scones and slices of carrot cake.

Check out available rooms at Pennygate Lodge here

Read our full Isle of Mull guide here

Salcombe, Devon

Sleep: Hip hotel Gara Rock, perched on a cliff over the harbour from Salcombe, has 12 rustic-chic bedrooms, a relaxed restaurant with sun terrace, indoor and outdoor heated pools, and a clutch of stylish self-catering family-friendly cottages – all of which are cleverly positioned to make the most of magnificent coastal views.

Eat: Gara Rock’s restaurant and terrace offers a relaxed vibe, a limited but reliable menu that caters for all culinary persuasions, and panoramic vistas through floor-to-ceiling windows (tables 115 or 117 have uninterrupted views). Lancashire-born Chris promises coastal cooking with a northern twist, weaving in personal favourites such as Ampleforth Abbey cider, Lancashire Bomb cheddar, black pudding, and sweets including Bakewell Tart, Eccles and lardy cakes.

In Salcombe itself, tuck into chargrilled scallops at cheery, bunting-garlanded beach café, The Winking Prawn. Overbeck’s, a National Trust property, serves a mean cream tea in tropical gardens overlooking the estuary.

Do: Work up an appetite with a 45-minute coastal walk from Gara Rock to sandy Mill Bay beach, refuel at the cute little Venus beach café, then hop on the jaunty passenger ferry from East Portlemouth to Salcombe, where you can make your own gin at Salcombe Gin and watch ice-cream being made at Salcombe Dairy.

Book a stay at Gara Rock here

Read our full review of Gara Rock here

Looking for places to stay in Japan? Want a traditional inn in Matsumoto? Read our hotel review, and check out our favourite places to eat in Kyoto here…

Tobira Onsen Myojinkan in a nutshell

A luxurious ryokan (traditional inn), high in the forests of the Japanese Alps, this Relais & Châteaux hotel offers impeccable service, kaiseki dinner experiences and mesmerising forest views.

The vibe

Japan is famous for a type of service culture called omotenashi, and this dedication to cherishing the customer is observed in every which way at Tobira Onsen Myojinkan. Shoes are swapped for slippers at the door, green tea and hot towels are offered, and you can order drinks from maroon leather armchairs that sit beside roaring fires during winter.

Pad softly to the contemporary dining area, where large grey cushions balance on wooden benches, or head to steaming onsens, where you can inhale the wild forest air while you bathe. The hotel is largely made of wood and is designed to reflect its natural surroundings, with huge glass windows and wraparound terraces that showcase the forest. Do a spot of forest bathing (or shirin-yoku as they call it in Japan) and take your pick of the maple trees in their seasonal glory: snow-capped in winter, lush green in spring and summer, fiery red and orange in autumn.

Which room should I book?

Choose between western- or Japanese-style bedrooms and wallow in home comforts from both cultures. The newly refurbished Zen Rooms promise a luxurious combination of both: colourful tatami mats sit at the foot of squishy beds, a private wooden onsen perches beside a monsoon shower, and traditional robes are provided to wear when eating at the restaurant. A glass wall allows all-day woodland observation, and it’s this natural canvas that sets the tone inside (think wooden floors and headboards, statement pieces made from twigs, mottled clay walls and soft lighting).

The food and drink

As with all Relais & Chateaux hotels, there is a firm focus on local gourmet experiences. A kaiseki dinner (the local take on a tasting menu, with a series of painstakingly prepared dishes carefully – sometimes theatrically but usually very formally – presented to each diner) is one of the ultimate Japanese culinary experiences and the version on offer at Tobira Onsen Myojinkan is no exception. Dress in the robes provided and head to the warren of private dining rooms that surround the hotel’s kitchen; some are lined with huge sake bottles, others with ukiyo-e paintings.

Our kaiseki menu started with sansai (“mountain vegetables”) served on a bamboo leaf with a simple dipping sauce, allowing the unique, vitamin-rich flavours of bitter angelica (tara no me), aniseedy mountain asparagus (yama udo) and bittersweet flowering rapeseed (nanohana) to shine. Tilefish (which has a sweet, delicate taste) came next, drifting in a traditional Japanese soup topped with a pop of pink cherry blossom.

Sashimi chefs cut snapper and finely sliced wasabi with precise theatrics, before we moved on to umami-rich lake fish carp stew. Bamboo-studded kinome rice was served in a terracotta dish, from which toasty aromas escaped as the lid was removed, while vibrantly green Japanese sansho pepper leaves imparted their bright and floral flavour, and pretty pickles added tartness. Fruit jelly topped with cherry blossom granita provided a finish that epitomised Japanese springtime. Order a glass of reasonably priced sake to pair with your meal – bone-dry dai shinchu from a neighbouring town, or sweeter (but equally delicious) kiriko “cut grass” sake from Obuse.

Breakfast

A tray-like wooden box is laid out as you slide onto your cushioned bench. Onto this are placed a succession of little dishes and boxes, opening to reveal Shinshu apple compote, vegetables with sweet miso, soy-cured salmon, silky tofu, bamboo parcels of fermented soy beans, sardines, and the obligatory trio of miso, fluffy rice and grass-green tea.

What else can foodies do?

Though we recommend soaking up Tobira Onsen Myojinkan’s serenity, there are plenty of foodie trips to embark on outside its walls if you feel like exploring. Visit Daio Wasabi Farm on a sunny spring day to witness the cherry blossom contrasting with the vibrant green wasabi. Buy a Shinshu apple or wasabi soft-serve ice cream, then amble across bridges over wasabi fields to shrines set amongst dense clusters of trees. There are panoramic mountain viewpoints to enjoy, too.

In the mountain town of Matsumoto, stop by Kobayashi Soba for tempura of mountain vegetables and neat boxes of soba noodles served with duck. Or try Katsugen, which specialises in tonkatsu sets – juicy pork cutlets quilted in crisp panko breadcrumbs, with miso soup, rice and a mountain of shredded cabbage to dip into thick tonkatsu sauce.

Try chocolatey Castle Stout and IPA, from Matsumoto Brewing Company, at craft beer joint Hop Frog Café. It’s dedicated to former Matsumoto resident and artist Yayoi Kusama, whose spotty pumpkins took Instagram by storm during her London exhibition. Then book a soba noodle-making class via Inside Japan Tours, creating and eating as many buckwheat noodles as you like.

Is it family friendly?

The Hachinoki Room is a family room complete with private onsen, and extra beds can be added to the Zen Rooms. Children’s menus include fried shrimp, sausages and soups. It’s worth noting that there’s an overriding sense of calm about the place, so children are expected to be quiet and well-behaved.

olive tip

Although the ryokan’s setting is stunning in all seasons, we suggest visiting in autumn, when the leaves of the maple trees turn the forest into a fiery blaze of red, yellow and gold.

As with all Relais & Chateaux hotels there is a strong focus on food, so a Japanese breakfast and full kaiseki dinner for two are included in the price.

Words by Alex Crossley

Photographs by Alex Crossley and Relais & Chateaux

Looking for places to stay in St Andrews? Want a boutique hotel in Fife? Read our hotel review, and check out more places to eat in Fife here…

Kinnettles Hotel in a nutshell

This staid, stone hotel was revamped into a boutique bolthole in 2017. Now it has a star chef in its kitchen. In April, 2018 Masterchef The Professionals finalist Dean Banks moved in and launched his first restaurant, Haar.

The vibe

Small, friendly and understated. St Andrews’ historic heart has four parallel prongs: Market Street is the bustling main drag, South Street promises wide, tree-lined gentility, The Scores has sea views and North Street is low-key and unassuming. In a 19^th-century building on North Street, Kinettles hasn’t bagged the best location in town but it has set itself apart from the city’s mixed bag of golf resorts and guesthouses with its star attraction, a destination restaurant.

Which room should I book at Kinnettles Hotel?  

The nine bedrooms don’t come with numbers or names on the doors, to make it feel more like a home, but this can be confusing; you need to have your brain in gear when you’re shown upstairs. Check into room 3, a corner suite, if you want a sumptuous soak; it’s the only room with a bath, a freestanding roll top tub stocked with delicious ESPA toiletries (heady bergamot, jasmine and a hint of cedarwood). An interior designer was drafted in for the revamp and the rooms offer luxurious, five-star comfort (dreamy beds and soft linen, fluffy gowns and slippers to pad around in) but nothing to make you gasp, design-wise. Think warm wood and crushed velvet, a touch of tweed in a muted colour palette of champagne and silver and a smattering of framed black and white golfing photographs.

The food and drink

Dean Banks comes from Arbroath, on Scotland’s north-east coast, and the restaurant’s name Haar (a Scottish mist that rolls in off the sea) is a nod to the seaside location. Design-wise it’s moody and modern with a mid-century vibe. Think tawny, tarnished tiles, the muted colours of a stormy sea, grey leather chairs, bare wooden tables and abstract artworks.

The à la carte menu focuses on sharing dishes, small and large, while a six-course tasting menu steals some of its stars. Dishes mix up local, seasonal ingredients (Dean is keen to keep Scottish seafood in Scotland and champions local producers) with Asian culinary influences gleaned from his travels (think Fife rare-breed pork belly with kimchi puree or vividly spiced octopus on a tangy bed of citrus barley, with a burnt tomato puree and coriander oil).

The Smoking Arbroath Smokie is a work of genius, the traditional smoked haddock from Dean’s hometown reimagined in three ways. A feather-light creamy mousse is topped with tender flakes of fish and foam served under a cloche swirling with smoke. Even the bread is a showstopper: an oven-warm loaf of corn bread, smeared with lightly whipped farm butter sprinkled with sea salt and dulse seaweed from the artisan Scottish Butter Company in Arbroath.

It’s also worth hitting the Haar Bar for one of the signature cocktails (which change nightly, like menu specials). If they’re on try an Espresso Haartini (Arbikie Haar vodka, coffee liqueur, espresso and sugar) or a Mary Queen of Scots (Uwa Reposado, Darnley’s Gin, clove and cinnamon syrup, mint and lime).

Breakfast

There’s a bijou breakfast buffet, prettily presented with Katy Rodgers Scottish farm yoghurts topped with compote (gooseberry, rhubarb or raspberry) and moreish pastries. The usual Scottish suspects are cooked to order – porridge, smoked salmon and scrambled eggs – while the Full Scottish features crumbly discs of haggis instead of traditional black pudding.

What else can foodies do?

A medieval university town, and the historic home of golf, St Andrews has recently become a culinary hotspot with gastronomic grazing round every corner. Meander down South Street to legendary gelateria Jannettas to pick up a cone of mint choc chip or Scottish favourites, cranachan or tablet (fudge), then head to the beach – either the cute curve of East Sands or the endless sweep of West Sands. In a contemporary glass box on the rocks overlooking the beach is the Seafood Ristorante where you can feast on Loch Etive sea trout and East Neuk crab with nori, cucumber and green apple. Or head back into town for fish and chips – or an Arbroath Smokie – from Tail End, owned by Arbroath fish merchants G & A Spink. And don’t leave town without a box of justifiably famous fudge doughnuts from Fisher and Donaldson.

Is it family friendly?

This is a small, town-centre boutique hotel so it’s not an obvious family destination, but children under six are accommodated free in their parents’ room. Children from 6-12 are charged £50 per night.

olive tip

Try a gin and soda rather than tonic. Arbroath-based (of course) field-to-bottle Arbikie Highland Estate’s AK’S Gin is flavoured with honey, black pepper and cardamom which shines with a milder mixer.

Book a room at Kinnettles Hotel here

Double rooms start from £155 b&b (kinnettleshotel.com; haarrestaurant.com)

Words by Lucy Gillmore

Looking for places to stay in the Cotswolds? Read our hotel review, and check out more places to stay in the Cotswolds here…

Minster Mill in a nutshell

A 38-room bolthole in the Cotswolds village of Minster Lovell, once a wedding and events venue but recently transformed into a sybaritic hotel following a £4.5million makeover. It’s part of the Andrew Brownsword stable of hotels, which includes Gidleigh Park and The Bath Priory.

The vibe

Set amidst 65 acres of leafy grounds on the banks of the River Windrush (which powers most of the estate via an on-site hydropower turbine), Minster Mill offers a genteel but slick sprawl of honey coloured Cotswold stone buildings to hole up in. Its sister property, the Old Swan country pub with rooms, is just around the corner if you fancy a smidge less formality and a hint more tradition.

Most of the bedrooms are located in the renovated 20^th-century mill itself, although there is a modern, dog-friendly annexe and several bedrooms by the river. Sleek, modern interiors set the hotel apart from the Old Swan but there are still many eye-catching original features dotted throughout, such as vaulted ceilings and oak beams.

Which room should I book at Minster Mill?

Light-filled rooms are generously sized and decorated in tasteful neutrals. Scandi-esque touches include pastel-hued wool blankets on the beds and Danish-style loungers. Find L’Occitane toiletries in the plushly modern bathrooms, Cotswolds-made lager, chocolate and crisps in the mini bar, and a room service menu that ranges from Oxford rarebit with brown sauce to rhubarb trifle.

If you need extra space, pick the junior suite: it comes with a lounge area, sofa bed, spacious bathrooms, pretty white-painted gabled ceilings and verdant garden views. Or feature rooms are situated by the river away from the main accommodation, and have private terrace areas with log burners or fire pits – plus marshmallows for toasting.

The food and drink

MasterChef: The Professionals 2017 semi-finalist Tom Moody is behind the pass at the hotel’s restaurant, which serves polished seasonal plates using produce from the hotel’s vegetable garden. A must-order is the butter-soft veal sweetbreads dressed in beef fat (all the meat and fish is British), with velvety caramelised cauliflower purée and crunchy walnuts. Aged loin of Cotswold lamb, blushing pink, spiked with salty hits of anchovy and feta, is another winner.

Service is streamlined and knowledgeable, particularly when it comes to wine – our waiter recommended a silky and light beaujolais. One word of caution: although the quality is high, the pricing is too, particularly for drinks and dinner. It’s a special-occasion kind of place but if you’re on a budget, go for the good-value set lunch menu. Pre- and post-dinner tipples, from crisp fino sherry to champagne and classic cocktails, can be found at the hotel’s chic gold-accented Mill Bar.  There are also champagne and Cotswold cream teas to try.

Breakfast

Wake up to hearty breakfasts including fried duck egg with black pudding and mushroom ketchup, double gloucester omelette, and banana and crispy parma ham on cinnamon toast with maple syrup.

What else can foodies do? 

Minster Mill’s pretty grounds are genuinely idyllic, full of gardens, wildflower meadows and woodland. Try fishing (there are bespoke packages available), hire a Pashley bicycle, or play tennis, boules, croquet and badminton. A small but serene Garden Spa comes with a heated plunge pool, sauna, steam and mud therapy rooms, plus treatment suites. Guests can pay £25 to use the spa for two hours, or get access for free if they’ve booked a treatment. There’s enough at Minster Mill to keep you occupied for a weekend, but should you venture out, Oxford is 15 miles away and Blenheim Palace just 11 miles.

Is it family friendly? 

There aren’t any facilities specifically geared towards families, but the extensive grounds offer plenty of opportunities for exploration. And the Hilltop annexe, set slightly away from the main hotel, consists of six rooms with their own outdoor spaces. Given the fine-dining food and zen-like spa, though, Minster Mill is probably best enjoyed by adults.

olive tip

There’s no mention of catering for vegans on the hotel’s website, but when contacted ahead of our visit, the restaurant designed a separate three-course plant-based menu. Think barbecued celeriac with walnut ketchup, British asparagus with yeast and salt-baked potato, and poached apricots with coconut sorbet, as well as vegan hors d’oeuvres.

minstermill.co.uk

Words by Hannah Guinness

Looking for restaurants in Rome? Want to know where to eat in the Italian capital? Local food stylist Alice Adams Carosi and food writer Rachel Roddy share their insider tips for the best restaurants in Rome, along with where to find Roman sandwiches, slices of pizza and the best gelato. 

olive’s top 10 must-visits for foodies in Rome

Castroni – for coffee

Stop for coffee at the Castroni emporium on Via Cola di Rienzo. Its house bar is wedged beside shelves of the best Italian specialty produce; sit and sip a cappuccino al vetro (cappuccino served in a glass) surrounded by the smell of just-ground coffee and the buzz of the Prati neighbourhood.

castronicoladirienzoshop.it

Mercato Rionale Niccolini – for fresh produce

If you’re self-catering, the outdoor market on Via Niccolini (open every day but Sunday in Monteverde Vecchio) is the place to head for the pick of the season’s crops. Seek out buffalo milk ricotta and chargrilled mozzarella at Alimentari Carlo in the middle of the strip, as well as one of Rome’s best fish stalls.

Via Giovanni Battista Niccolini

Ristorante Piperno – for cosy, old-school atmosphere

Double fried carciofi alla giudia are one of the undisputed pillars of the Roman table. For some of the best, make your way to Ristorante Piperno, tucked down a small street in the city’s Jewish ghetto. It serves meltingly soft artichoke hearts encased by crisp leaves in Rome’s most charming dining room.

ristorantepiperno.it

Marigold – for fresh, modern cooking

Chef Domenico Cortese, of microbakery and restaurant Marigold, exalts the best of every season in dishes like shaved fennel and puntarelle with toasted hazelnuts, and aubergines with roasted pepper romesco salsa. Completing the picture are Sofie Wochner’s sourdough breads and a great natural wine list. Book for dinner, on Friday and Saturday nights only.

marigoldroma.com

The Pasta Factory – for pasta lessons

As the name suggests, Veronica Paolillo’s unique studio kitchen lies in an old pasta factory. Which is appropriate since her focus in the small group workshops she leads is firmly on pasta. Learn how to make three different types of pasta before enjoying them first-hand at a shared meal with your fellow students.

airbnb.co.uk/experiences

Supplizio – for street food

The original Roman street food, supplì is a mozzarella-filled fried rice snack. At Supplizio, in the middle of the meandering streets around Via dei Banchi Vecchi, you can try a perfect rendition of the original tomato supplì, as well as cacio and pepe and carbonara varieties.

supplizioroma.it

Circus Maximus Farmers Market – for porchetta sandwiches

The long tradition of bringing herb-stuffed and crackling-coated roast pork from the hinterland towns into the city continues with the selling of porchetta sandwiches. One of the best porchetta paninos is to be found at the Campagna Amica Farmer’s Market in Via San Teodoro every Saturday and Sunday.

circusmaximumfarmersmarket.wordpress.com

Il Goccetto – for wine

Enoteca are the best kind of wine shops: those you can have a drink in. Even better if they serve small plates of appetisers alongside the wine, as Il Goccetto does. If you’re visiting in the summer ask for a glass of chilled Grechetto from northern Lazio.

facebook.com/Ilgoccetto

Spoon Gelateria – for artisan gelato

Steps away from Piazza San Pietro, Spoon Gelateria is Rome’s newest gelato gem. The purist’s pick is hazelnut, pistachio and chocolate with a slick of whipped cream, or try a scoop of the Gentillini made with the iconic Roman biscuits.

@spoongelateria

Urbana 47 – for a foodie place to stay in Rome

A modern twist on the guesthouse tradition, Urbana 47’s pared-back bedrooms are set above a happening bar and pizzeria in the ivy clad streets of the Monti neighbourhood. Its owners have been leaders in the drive to use more seasonal, local and ethically raised produce in Rome’s kitchens, using free-range eggs from one of Lazio’s best poultry farms in dishes and offering an impressive local wine selection among other policies. Breakfast is typically Roman and no-frills (a coffee and a cornetto) but if you’re after something more substantial you can order eggs with toast and seasonal vegetables, mushroom and mozzarella omelettes, eggs benedict or croque monsieur made with mozzarella down in the restaurant.

urbana47.it

Other places to eat and drink in Rome

Panificio Bonci – for pizza

It’s hard to walk past this spot, on Via Trionfale, without stopping for a slice of pizza al taglio, maybe potato and mozzarella or a classic pizza rossa. If you’re self-catering you’ll also want to pick up a loaf made using the best organic stoneground flours, or a bag of artisan pastries.

bonci.it

Piatto Romano – for comfort food

Aged sheep’s milk pecorino cheese is a cornerstone ingredient in the big four Roman pastas: cacio e pepe, carbonara, amatriciana and la gricia. Pull up a chair at Testaccio trattoria Piatto Romano and dive into a bowl of pasta cooked the way it should be – simple, unsophisticated and blanketed with pecorino.

piattoromano.com

Words by Alice Adams Carosi, June 2019

Armando – for traditional Roman food

Metres away from the Pantheon, Armando is a quietly elegant, but not at all precious, trattoria serving excellent, traditional Roman food. Try the fettuccine con le rigaglie (fresh egg pasta with chicken livers) and the torta antica.

armandoalpantheon.it

VinoRoma – for wine tastings

Hande Leimer’s wine tastings at VinoRoma are illuminating and relaxed. Her most popular tasting is ‘My Italians’, a two-hour event held in her handsome studio near the Colosseum.

vinoroma.com

Mordi & Vai – for sandwiches

At Mordi & Vai ex-butcher Sergio Esposito’s sandwiches are some of Rome’s greatest (and best value). The classic, panino con l’ allesso, is a soft roll dipped in rich meat broth, filled with meltingly tender boiled beef.

mordievai.it

Il Gelato – for gelato

In case of indecision, nocciola e cioccolato (hazelnut and chocolate) is a good default position at Il Gelato. A brisk 10-minute walk from the Colosseum other favourites at this gelateria include lemon and wild strawberries, pear, port and almond, and the Roman favourite, stracciatella.

ilgelatodiclaudiotorce.com

Forno Campo de’ Fiori – for pizza

Get to Forno Campo de’ Fiori by 11 to grab a late-morning snack. Order a slice of both pizza bianca (olive oil and salt) and pizza rossa (with tomato). Don’t stand by the door or the bins – take your hot pizza into the relative calm of Piazza Farnese and eat it beside one of the fountains.

fornocampodefiori.com

Testaccio market – for market shopping

Modern and bright Testaccio market is as tremendous and genuine as its grubbier previous incarnation. Wander between stalls selling fruit, vegetables, meat, fish and cheese, then buy mozzarella from Lina (box 89), bread and pizza from Artenio (box 90), and tomatoes and strawberries from Gianluca (box 32).

Between Via Aldo Manuzio and Via Beniamino Franklin

Flavio al Velavevodetto – for pasta

At trattoria Flavio al Velavevodetto, partly burrowed into Monte Testaccio, the quartet of classic roman pastas – carbonara, gricia, amatriciana and cacio e pepe – are all superb. In season, order artichokes either Roman-style (braised whole with mint and garlic) or Jewish-style (deep-fried until they look like an exquisite bronze flower).

ristorantevelavevodetto.it

Bar Barberini – for coffee

Rome is peppered with bars in which the real business of life is conducted over small cups of espresso, drunk standing at the counter. Follow suit at Bar Barberini; pay first, stand at the counter holding a small coin on your receipt, order, and drink in both coffee and atmosphere.

Via Marmorata 41, 00 39 06 575 0869

Best street food in Rome

Demand for more affordable dining options has brought delicious changes to Rome’s food scene, not least a growing number of venues providing high-quality street food. At Trapizzino in Testaccio thick and spongy pizza corners are toasted, sliced open and filled with spoonfuls of hearty Roman dishes like oxtail stew, braised beef, aubergine parmigiana and meatballs.

Head to historic bakery Antico Forno Roscioli (Via dei Chiavari 34), where pizza con la mortazza (mortadella-filled flatbread) is an inexpensive sandwich served year-round.

Across the river in Prati, porchetta (deboned roast pork) sandwiches, are the specialty at Birra e Porchetta (Via Ciro Menotti 32) and the pizza con la porchetta (roast pork filled flatbread) from Panificio Bonci (Via Trionfale 36) has to be the city’s most satisfying street-food bite.

Where to stay in Rome

Double rooms at Hotel Re Testa, above Testaccio’s new market, cost from around €90, B&B.

Book your stay at Hotel Re Testa here

Trust olive: Rachel Roddy is a Rome-based food writer. Her first book, Five Quarters: Recipes and Notes from a Kitchen in Rome is published by Saltyard books.

Looking for restaurants in Crete? Want to know the best places to eat in the Cyclades? Check out the best Greek islands for foodie island hopping…

Hotel Archontiko Angelou, Leros

Though Marianna doesn’t offer dinner at this sympathetically renovated old mansion, her al fresco breakfasts are worth a visit alone. She uses a glut of local ingredients (many grown in the hotel’s garden, where breakfast is taken), including freshly squeezed juices, yogurt, honey, home-baked bread, fresh cheeses, jams and a legendary lemon curd. There are also vegan, dairy- and gluten-free options, such as chia puddings and cashew cheese. If you want to explore Leros, Marianna will pack a picnic for you. If not, press her for recommendations, from the island’s best beaches and tavernas to boat trips for lazy days spent snoozing and swimming to remote white pebble beaches.

Book a stay at Archontiko Angelou here

hotel-angelou-leros.com

Rosy’s Little Village, Agistri

A cluster of whitewashed buildings splashed with bright bursts of bougainvillea, hibiscus and geraniums, Rosy’s perches above a small rocky cove (grab a kayak to explore sea caves nearby). A family-run hotel serving simple but excellent food, the extensive menu at its terrace restaurant includes marinated anchovies, zucchini pie, rosemary lamb and glasses of local retsina, a salty-sweet wine made using pine tree sap. Best of all, freshly caught fish (sold by weight) includes sardines, red mullet and swordfish, all of which is simply grilled and served with organic vegetables grown on-site. Eat looking out across the Saronic Gulf towards the neighbouring island of Aegina.

Get great deals on a stay at Rosy’s Little Village here

rosyslittlevillage.com

The Good Life, Syros

The villas and studios at this aptly named organic retreat each come with kitchens (help yourself to plums, peaches, figs and lemons from the farm to pimp up your holiday breakfasts). Guests congregate around a large outdoor kitchen in the evenings to cook and share stories, and once a week they’re invited to join a (complimentary) communal dinner – think barbecued beef fillet with a range of pitta breads and salads – accompanied by generous amounts of Greek wine. Grapes in the vineyards are also used to distill juice for tsipouro (similar to Italian grappa), and guests are given a small bottle to take home with them.

Find a room at The Good Life here

goodlifegreece.com

Metohi Kindelis, Crete

This 17th-century Venetian estate, just outside Chania, has three gorgeously converted guesthouses, each with private pools. All come stocked with breakfast goodies, including homemade marmalade, crumbly sheep’s cheese, extra virgin olive oil, and freshly picked organic avocados and strawberries. If you’re inspired to cook, staff can provide further baskets of seasonal ingredients and recipes. If you’re feeling idle, they’ll sort a takeaway from a neighbourhood taverna, or arrange for a local chef to cook your dinner and serve it in the jasmine-scented garden. Travellers who want to delve deeper into the island’s culinary history should book the fascinating bread- and cheese-making class, led by a food historian.

metohi-kindelis.gr

Kamarotí, Sifnos

Sensitively built within an ancient olive grove (not a single tree was cut down during construction), with views over the pretty village of Kastro and the Aegean Sea beyond, Kamarotí puts a surprisingly Spanish twist on its food (the hotel is owned by three Spanish brothers). Breakfast varies greatly: you might have Spanish omelette one day, and diced home-grown tomatoes with fresh local mizithra cheese and crushed melon seed juice the next. Dinner, served only in July and August, starts with a selection of tapas, and paella is on the menu once a week.

Book your stay at Kamarotí here

kamaroti.com

Villa de Loulia, Corfu

Named after owner Loukia’s grandmother, Loulia, who built this historic Italianate villa in 1808, Villa de Loulia houses nine elegant, colourful bedrooms and suites, plus a restaurant that serves old family recipes made from local, organic produce. Start the day by the pool with Loukia’s homemade zucchini pie or ravani orange and almond semolina cake, then explore the ancient village of Peroulades and its uncrowded beaches before heading back to Villa de Loulia for classic Corfiot dishes (including bourdeto: fish cooked in spicy tomato sauce).

Book your stay at Villa de Loulia here

villadeloulia.gr

Milia Mountain Retreat, Crete

Set amid chestnut trees with the rugged mountainous beauty of the Kissamos region as a backdrop, Milia is a beautifully renovated collection of 15th-century stone buildings. All rooms have thick stone walls and their own fireplaces, making it perfect for cosy off-season stays, and the retreat is surrounded by an extensive network of hiking trails. The restaurant serves traditional Cretan “humble gastronomy”, such as wild greens soup and grilled aubergine spread, as well as roast baby goat, lamb with herbs, and bureki courgette pot pie cooked in a wood stove. Every Wednesday, guests can join a four-hour traditional Cretan cooking session in the kitchen.

milia.gr

Levendis Estate, Ithaca

Aussie-Greek couple Marilyn and Spero Raftopulos – plus their (grown-up) children, Kate and Niko – run this collection of four cottages plus swimming pool on Spero’s family homestead. It overlooks a bay in the north of the island and has been going for more than 30 years. Bathrooms come generously stocked with Levendis’ own natural skincare products, while cottage kitchens are pre-stocked with delicious Greek wine, olives and pistachios for that first holiday sundowner. Plus peach juice, bread, homemade jams, local thyme honey, freshly laid eggs and own-recipe muesli for the first morning’s breakfast.

Click here for more places to eat and drink in Ithaca…

levendisestate.com

Mèlisses, Andros

A stylish, four-suite guesthouse, Mèlisses is a favourite with foodies thanks to its culinary host, Allegra Pomilio, an Italian with a passion for all things Greek. Every season she hosts a selection of retreats and workshops together with guest chefs and other creatives. Sign up and, in between learning how to cook tahini chocolate cookies, you might join an excursion to nearby waterfalls or to Palaiopoli, the ancient, partly-submerged former capital of the island. Suites have kitchens and sea views and are so dreamily decorated in shades of greys and blues that you’ll want to move right in. Guests gather in the open-plan kitchen for breakfast before heading down to the private bay, glass of homemade sour cherry lemonade in hand, for a morning dip.

melisses-andros.com

Ktima Lemonies, Andros

As the name suggests, the Ktima Lemonies estate on lush Andros is surrounded by lemon (and olive) groves. Start the day with syrup made from lemon tree flower petals (which owner Nelly carefully collects at dawn to avoid bees and to keep them fresh), served on bread or simply from the jar. Only breakfast is available, but making your own picnic lunch from the breakfast buffet is encouraged rather than frowned upon here, and you can enjoy a glass of the estate’s own wines or limoncello in the evening before heading out to one of the island’s many restaurants.

ktimalemonies.gr

Words by Tatty Good

Looking for the best ice cream in the UK? What better way to cool down on a hot summer’s day than with a scoop or two of ice cream? Especially if it’s freshly hand-crafted from fine ingredients, to a creative recipe.

If you’d rather have a cone topped with damson ice cream or fig and ricotta sorbet than your classic rum ‘n’ raisin, here are eleven of the best ice cream parlours where you can chill…

Best ice cream shops in London

Ruby Violet, Kentish Town

Run with old-school glamour but contemporary flair by ex-food photographer Julie Fisher (the name is a nod to her maternal grandmother), this North London ice cream hot spot developed from a stall at a local market. As Julie says ‘ice cream makes people smile’ and Ruby Violet’s certainly does that. As far as possible, Julie subscribes to the fresh, seasonal, local philosophy; look out for peach and rosewater, damson, English strawberry, Seville orange marmalade ripple and Kentish Town honey.

rubyviolet.co.uk

Gelupo, Soho

Serving a mixture of classic and inventive flavour combinations from around the world – think Blood Orange, Honeycomb and Hazelnut, Ricotta and Sour Cherry and Bonet (a combination of coffee, rum, chocolate, egg yolk and amaretti), Gelupo is a Soho institution. In 2018, in celebration of Chinese New Year, the business also added a number of Asian-inspired flavours, such as Red Bean Paste, Black Sesame and Mango Sticky Rice.

Its gelato is made freshly every day by a team of skilled makers, resulting in silky-smooth textures and rich flavours. In a happy coincidence, the churning process used to achieve the right gelato density also results in a lower fat content, so bring on that third scoop!

gelupo.com

La Gelatiera, Covent Garden and Stratford

London’s La Gelatiera has permanent shops in Covent Garden and Stratford but can also be found popping up at Brick Lane Market during the summer months. It focuses on unique and intriguing flavour combinations, from Blue Cheese and Walnut to Basil and Chilli.

Each scoop is made with natural, seasonal ingredients and Jersey milk and cream, with the dairy ingredients pasteurised on site for optimum freshness. If you want to keep it classic you can order a scoop of creamy Vanilla Mananara, but the Honey, Rosemary and Orange is recommended if you fancy something fresher with slightly savoury notes.

lagelatiera.co.uk

Marine Ices, Chalk Farm

Ditch dessert at the restaurant and head to Marine Ices for late-night gelati instead. A 3-minute walk from Chalk Farm tube station, this long-established parlour (it was founded in 1931) makes its ice cream on a Suffolk farm just outside Bury St Edmunds.

It’s more gelato than ice cream – because of the dreamy, creamy texture – and flavours are well-balanced, genuine and delicate. Our favourites include banana (it tastes like those foam bananas you get in a pick ‘n’ mix) and roasted pistachio. The latter is a triumph – it uses real pistachio paste as its base, and as such it tastes exactly like the real thing. Coconut, white chocolate and blueberry muffin are all equally authentic.

If you’re sitting in, try one of their ice cream sundaes. There are 11 to choose from (including classics such as peach melba and Knickerbocker Glory), but we’d recommend the mighty Coppa Aldo: generous scoops of tiramisu and chocolate gelato, banana coins, hot fudge sauce and hazelnut nibs… good luck with finishing the whole cup!

marineices.co.uk

Best ice cream shops in the UK

Jack’s Gelato, Cambridge

This sleek gelato parlour serves a range of inventive flavours, all made by hand in small batches in the downstairs kitchen. Ingredients are carefully considered, be it coffee beans sourced from Essex-based The Coffee Officina or Pump Street chocolate used in the stracciatella flavour.

Come rain or shine there’s usually a queue down the street, but it’s worth joining. The menu changes daily but if they’re in stock, make the most of your cone with some hazelnut brittle, sweet-salty treacle or refreshing alphonso mango sorbet. You can also expect white peach, Greek yogurt and elderflower sorbet throughout the year.

In the summer months, you’ll find the cool Cambridge crowd gulping down scoops of rhubarb and rose sorbetti from the parlour’s tricycle, which travels around the city, but it’s worth a visit in the winter too for a scoop of the mince pie flavour. If you’re really peckish (or can’t visit on a regular basis), buy a 1L tub of your favourite flavour to store in your freezer.

jacksgelato.co.uk

Gelato Gusto, Brighton

This sleek North Laine parlour makes its own gelato daily, using milk and cream from a local Sussex dairy. Don’t go expecting a simple strawberry or vanilla cone; the current range stretches from sea salt caramel, and black truffle and honey gelato to sorbettos of alphonso mango, earl grey tea, or even vegan-friendly coconut milk.

If that still sounds too tame, go with an empty stomach and fill up on their latest invention; the ice cream burger (actually ice cream in a hot brioche  bun).

gelatogusto.com

More Brighton foodie spots here…

Swoon, Bath and Bristol

One of the most popular gelato outlets in the southwest, with branches in Bristol and Bath, Swoon serves its superior take on classic Strawberry, Vanilla and Chocolate ices alongside a popular range of Italian-influenced flavours (Neapolitan coffee, Pistachio, Bacio – chocolate and hazelnut – and an outstanding Chocolate Sorbet) and Swoon on a Sticks (think posh Magnum).

The fact that you can order its gelato in ‘bambino’ sizes wins them brownie points with parents. And its dedication to coming up with an ever-changing range of seasonal flavours is what keeps the regulars coming back. Recent favourites include Panettone, Hot Cross Bun, Peanut Butter and Chocolate and Ricotta and Blueberry.

swoononaspoon.co.uk

Check out the best independent food businesses in Bath, here…

Moomaid of Zennor, St Ives

Ice-cream wars are waged in West Cornwall, but the classy Moomaid of Zennor parlour wins with its imaginative flavours. Made on a family-run dairy farm, the Friesian Holstein Moomaids graze on the cliffs before their milk is mixed with Cornish clotted or double cream. Order a scoop of espresso martini for a coffee kick, tangy mango and passion fruit sorbet or Shipwreck Extra Stormy, a sweet concoction of salted caramel ice-cream with chunks of honeycomb and chocolate. 

moomaidofzennor.com

Melt, Margate

No trip to the coast is complete without an ice-cream. And in Margate the freshly churned gelato from Melt is the best in town. Flavours range from peaches and cream to rhubarb and custard, peanut butter jelly and Turkish delight but they change all the time so no two days’ offering is the same. There’s always a vegan option, from blueberry to Bournville. Find the parlour right on the seafront. Check out where to eat in Margate here…

facebook.com/MeltMargate

Snugburys, Cheshire

Three sisters are at the helm of this charming ice cream parlour, which is set within a pretty cobbled courtyard on the family’s Cheshire farm. Must-order scoops include sweet Cherry Blizzard (white chocolate, Oreos and cherries), refreshing Tropical Twist (a mix of mango sorbet and vanilla ice cream), Raspberry and Liquorice and Yum Yum (creamy vanilla ice cream swirled with pecans, chocolate, biscuit and toffee).

The on-site kitchen means every element of the ice cream is homemade, including the parlour’s chocolate brownies, pavlova meringues and crisp crème brulee sugar. There’s always a good range of seasonal flavours on offer, too; in the winter look out for delicately spiced Christmas Pudding (with brazil nuts, pecans, currants, sultanas, walnuts, prunes, raisins, oranges, lemons, cherries, candied peel, spices, Guinness and brandy) or Sloe Gin and Damson.

snugburys.co.uk

Affogato, Edinburgh

From gin & tonic gelato made with the Edinburgh Gin Distillery’s Seaside Gin, to a salty, crunch-packed maple, bourbon and bacon flavour and a popular cardamom bun flavour made with local brand Peter’s Yard’s famous baked goodies, this West End parlour uses natural ingredients to produce really stand-out, hand-crafted gelato.

Many are seasonal (look out for fig & ricotta sorbet) and the shop runs an ice-cream cart at events around the city. It’s also famously pooch-friendly, providing dog-only gelato.

facebook.com/affogatoedinburgh

Harriet’s Jolly Nice, Gloucestershire

Set in a former filling station outside Stroud, what started out as a mobile ice cream parlour, selling from a gleaming Airstream trailer, is now a stylish farm shop and café, and a must-visit in the local area for gourmet burgers-to-go. But it would be daft to visit without trying some of the chilled stuff.

Ice cream is still a major part of the business, and made with some of the poshest ingredients around (Madagascan vanilla pods, artisan coffee, honey from owner Harriet’s own farm, Valrhona chocolate, forced rhubarb from the Yorkshire Triangle). Flavours are seasonal but look out for beetroot and raspberry, honey and lavender, plum and star anise, gooseberry and elderflower and date, coffee and cardamom.

jollynicefarmshop.com

Ginger’s Comfort Emporium, Manchester

A mobile ice cream van plus a sit-in diner on the first floor of Afflecks, an emporium of independent stores in the city’s Northern Quarter, Ginger’s specialises in refreshingly creative flavours (mint and fennel, plum, gin and juniper and blackberry, rose and sage sorbet, pear and tonka bean) and equally unexpected ice cream desserts; the French Elvis is legendary, a medley of hot French toast, filled with salted caramel and peanut butter ice cream, Skippy peanut butter, fresh banana and homemade raspberry sauce.

gingerscomfortemporium.com

Morelli’s, Broadstairs

A must-visit for ice-cream lovers along the North Kent Coast, this branch of Morelli’s has been standing since 1932 and sells gelato in myriad of flavours, from a vanilla to pistachio to Kilimanjaro coffee. Along with cones you can order retro sundaes, indulgent milkshakes and hot waffles with a scoop on the side. Here are more places to eat and drink in Broadstairs…

morellisgelato.com

The Little Ice Cream Shop, Hawkshead

This modestly named ice cream parlour in the centre of Hawkshead is as charming as it sounds. All its ice cream is made on a local farm, using milk from its small dairy herd, and the flavours are comforting classics.

The current range includes Jamaican Rum and Raisin, Rhubarb and Custard and various takes on familiar desserts – think Grandma’s Apple Pie and New York Blackcurrant Cheesecake. It wins extra points for the logo-stamped wafers that come with each cone.

thelittleicecreamshop.com

Photographs: Kiran Master, Danielle Wood

Try our best ice cream recipes here…

Or find out which supermarket does the best vanilla ice cream here…

Looking for restaurants in Portugal’s Alentejo region? Want to know where to eat in Évora? Food and travel writer Clare Hargreaves takes us on a foodie road trip through the Alentejo region, stopping off at rustic restaurants, family-run wine estates and five-star farmsteads.

The Portuguese have a saying: “When you eat, you don’t get old.” Which seems as good a reason as any to demolish the trio of glisteningly tender pork medallions I’ve just been served, plus the wine-infused sauce and mountain of rice flecked with coriander, crushed almond and raisin they come with.

I’m at Sabores de Monsaraz, a no-frills restaurant in the whitewashed hilltop village of Monsaraz in the Alentejo, Portugal’s sun-baked but fertile heartland. Pork is king here: you eat every part, cooked every which way. Especially if the meat in question (as in this case) is porco preto, from black pigs fed on the acorns of the oaks that cloak the plains below the village.

Earlier, slivers of paprika-orange chouriço arrived, along with delicate fresh goat’s cheese, watercress, olives and sourdough. And local vinho of course. The meal is a snapshot of the Alentejo’s centuries-old way of eating, and served in quantities once needed to sustain those labouring in the fields. The fact that few of us now have that sort of appetite doesn’t seem to trouble Dona Isabel and her hair-netted sister, who have been stoically running Sabores for the past 14 years.

Down on the plain below, at São Lourenço do Barrocal, traditional farming traditions also live on but are now combined with five-star hospitality. The estate has been owned by the same family for 200 years but was seized following the 1974 revolution. Happily the family managed to buy it back, and hired a Portuguese architect to turn cowsheds and old farmworkers’ quarters into simple but stylish hotel accommodation with brick floors and locally woven fabrics. The property’s wide central cobbled ‘street’, over which carts and cattle once clattered, now resounds to the rumble of luggage buggies and, at night, the song of frogs and crickets.

In the hotel’s rustic restaurant, I sample escabeche de perdiz, estate-shot partridge married with wine, oil and vinegar, made to a scribbled family recipe that’s displayed, along with other relics, on the wall above the fireplace. Thanks to its homegrown marinade, the partridge (so often dry) is surprisingly luscious. I wash it down with a glass of Barrocal’s oak-aged 2013 reserve, one of its organic wines produced from native grapes.

Like the game, most of the kitchen’s produce hails from Barrocal’s rock-studded 780 hectares, from veal and olive oil to vegetables grown in its red-brick-walled garden. In spring, the estate’s cow-grazed meadows produce wild asparagus, which the following evening I watch Barrocal’s chef cooking with the farm’s eggs. He serves it with a salad of just-picked broad beans, blending their chopped pods with more eggs and another Alentejo staple: migas (breadcrumbs). Elegant and delicious, it is a vivid example of traditional farm labouring food reimagined for modern sensibilities.

Heading south, through wildly beautiful landscapes studded with cork oaks and rosette-like rock roses, I pass the vast Alqueva reservoir to reach the cubist buildings of another small family-run wine estate, Quetzal, owned by the Dutch de Bruins family. Here, a state-of-the-art winery combines viticulture with food and modern art; works from the de Bruins’ collection are exhibited below the estate’s restaurant, and a vibrant tile-based painting of the South American quetzal bird dominates one wall.

Lunch is equally eye-opening, kicking off with green bean tempura (Portuguese explorers were key players in the development of tempura in Japan) before moving on to bacalhau (dried and salted cod). Often it’s thrown into stews or flaked and mixed with breadcrumbs, but here it’s clothed in a crust made from coriander.

The place to stock up on fresh coriander and other Alentejan staples is castle-crowned Estremoz, due north. The region is rich in marble, so the town’s pavements are clad in the glistening white stone. On Saturday mornings its main square hosts a market where you’ll find the likes of farmhouse sheep’s cheeses, fiery chouriços and olives as shiny as bullets. But it’s the rosy-cheeked sellers (often the items’ producers) that make the market so special.

Across the square is one of the Alentejo’s most entertaining gastronomic destinations, Mercearia Gadanha, the laid-back deli-restaurant of Brazilian-born Michele Marques. You can buy wines and cakes to take away, or sit and eat in a room at the back. Michele hands me a glass of 2017 Primeiro Nome, a white wine produced by Estremoz’s up-and-coming winemaker Miguel Louro, from native Portugese grapes. “He has just has two whites and two reds, but he’s one to watch,” she says.

I try pica-pau, served in a cast-iron dish, and scattered with a confetti of pink pickles. ‘Pica-pau’ means woodpecker, a reference to its traditional role as a dish that’s picked at over a beer with friends. It’s normally made with pork leftovers, spruced up with pickles, but here the meat is veal and has a wine-rich sauce. “Not being Portuguese, I can experiment,” says Michele, whose training included a stint at Lisbon’s Michelin-starred Feitoria.

My base for this leg of the journey is the fresco-walled Casa do Terreiro do Poço in another marble town, Borba, that’s also famous for its wines and antiques. Owner João Cavaleiro Ferreira imports antiques, so bedrooms are peppered with his finds. For foodies, though, the draw is the breakfast, whose crowning glories are the locally made custard tarts and João’s wife Rita’s homemade marmelada, the quince jam that gave English its word ‘marmalade’.

For more sweet stuff, I head to nearby medieval-walled Évora. The historic city was variously inhabited by the Romans, the Moors and the royal House of Avis (who established their court here in the late 14th century). But it was the town’s convents that accidentally established Alentejo’s pastry-making traditions, still going strong today. Nuns’ habits needed starching, and starching required egg whites. That left a lot of yolks, so nuns combined them with sugar, a luxury others couldn’t afford, to create an array of sunshine-yellow delicacies.

The most famous of these is pão de rala, a bread with a gooey pumpkin, almond and egg yolk centre that Dona Ercilia has been making (along with Nun’s Kisses and curd cheese tarts) at the azulejo-walled Pastelaria Conventual Pão de Rala since she was a toddler helping her mum (Rua de Cicioso 47). For desserts, as opposed to pastries, I head to Tasquinha do Oliveira, a homely, six-table restaurant run by husband and wife team Manuel and Carolina Oliveira (Rua Cândido dos Reis 45). Peek behind the bar to choose from Carolina’s cinnamon-sprinkled puddings, from egg-yolk-and-sugar encharcada do Convento Santa Clara to cooked rice pudding, or farófias, a local take on floating islands. My favourite is the marginally less sweet sericaia, a custard soufflé whose recipe was imported from India and which is served with a preserved plum grown in nearby Elvas.

For more savoury sustenance head to even tinier Botequim da Mouraria, a few blocks away in Évora’s old Moorish quarter. It’s not really a restaurant but a wooden counter from which owner Domingos Canelas regales you with local wines and petiscos (Portugal’s tapas equivalent) while wife Florbela toils in the pint-sized kitchen behind (Rua da Mouraria 16A). Get there before it opens to be sure of a stool – there are only nine, and you can’t book. Seasonal must-tries include springtime scrambled eggs with asparagus, but at any time of year the veal steaks and the presunto (cured ham), shaved from a leg behind the counter, are sensational.

For tradition-steeped food in a more formal setting, tardis-like Fialho, tucked up a side street, is the place. You arrive to tables already decked with petiscos, and pick the ones you fancy (winners are the cured ham and just-out-of-the-oven chicken pie). The restaurant is famed for a partridge stew called perdiz à convento da Cartuxa but I’m swayed by baby broad beans with fried ham.

Eating these centuries-old dishes surrounded by the landscapes that produced their components is a rare privilege, and one worth seeking out. But it would be wrong to sum up the Alentejo as a region where kitchens take their cue only from the past. At the hip L’And Vineyards hotel, west of Évora, 29-year-old José Tapadejo took over as executive chef in January and is already wowing hotel guests with his original interpretations of Alentejan classics, as well as his use of fermented and foraged ingredients. Yes, black pork is there, but it gets a contemporary gastronomic twist by being partnered with wafers made from the acorns the pigs eat. And instead of cod, José brings me a local river fish, pike perch, atop a cushion of migas infused with minty pennyroyal, and spoons on a saffron froth as delicate as the clouds scudding across the skies above the vines.

As I leave I catch sight of my reflection in a mirror. The jury’s still out on whether the region’s food is an anti-ageing miracle cure. But delicious? No question.

Words and photographs by Clare Hargreaves, July 2019

Follow Clare on Instagram @larderloutUK

Looking for places to stay in Kent? Want a country-yet-contemporary hotel? Read our review of The Salutation, and check out more places to eat in Kent here.

The Salutation in a nutshell

Just 200ft from the River Stour, the stately Salutation, designed by Edwin Lutyens, is a masterpiece in Georgian grandeur (albeit with an uber-modern tasting room and glass-fronted open kitchen downstairs).

The vibe

It’s an elegant place, where the atmosphere is hushed and the carpets are spotless. Expect sweeping staircases, twisted columns, double-height sash windows and nearly four acres of carefully tended gardens (also designed by Lutyens). If you fancy a stroll, head to the Poplar walk then continue to the wet meadow, where you can sit awhile and admire the house from a distance.

There’s also a timber-clad lounge-cum-bar, a drawing room where afternoon tea is served, and a pretty terrace that looks out onto the gardens. Outside, also on the estate, is a gift shop, café and a small nursery where you can buy plants (more than 100 of those on sale can’t be found anywhere else in the country).

Which room should I book at The Salutation?

All eight bedrooms are vast, with views of the garden and St Clement’s Church beyond. Billowing curtains, Chesterfield-style sofas and ornate bed canopies lend a heritage feel to four of the rooms, while the others (Farrer, Lutyens, Jekyll and Gertrude) are more contemporary with navy blue walls, geometric rugs and sloping roofs. You can make your own tea and coffee, but there are no fridges for fresh milk.

The food and drink

The kitchen, refreshed in 2017 when chef Shane Hughes took over, is designed to be entirely transparent. It’s glass-fronted, so diners (who eat at gnarled wooden benches) can watch their meal come together (or turn to face the other side of the room and enjoy tropical garden views). The dining room itself is deliberately muted – dove grey walls, simple panelling and modern lighting – to let those views shine.

Order the tasting menu (for a very reasonable £48 per person) to try the best of Shane’s cooking. Pre-dinner snacks might include truffled pea piped back into its shell, and mini mac ’n’ cheese bites made interesting with a background hit of fermented chilli (six weeks in the making). You might also try dark wedges of Guinness sourdough with smoked butter, delicately poached Scottish scallops (lifted with grapefruit) and duck breast with sticky honey sauce, pull-apart confit duck leg and roast butternut squash layered with blue cheese. The wine list is compiled by Master of Wine Vincent Gasnier and, though predominantly French, includes Kentish bottles from Biddenden and Chapel Down vineyards.

Breakfast

Though not quite as show-stopping as dinner, this includes stewed fruits, cereals, pastries and hot dishes cooked to order (including the egg’s benedict, draped in velvety hollandaise).

What else can foodies do?

Be sure to visit the kitchen garden (behind the wet meadow), to see the herbs and heritage vegetables that go into Shane’s menus. He works in conjunction with head gardener Steve Edney to keep the food as seasonal and local as possible.

Is it family friendly?

Children are welcome, but the exclusive feel of the main house could make parents wary of vocal children. Instead, book the Coach House (two bedrooms and a kitchen) or the three-bedroom Gardener’s Cottage, both of which sit in The Salutation’s grounds.

olive tip

Take afternoon tea on the terrace, right in front of the bowling green. It’s eat-all-you-like, and includes homemade scones, carrot cake with spiced mascarpone and bottomless champagne.

the-salutation.com

Words by Charlotte Morgan

Looking for places to eat with kids? Here’s our pick of the best family restaurants in the country…

Child-friendly restaurants in London…

Tredwells, WC2 (Covent Garden)

As well as a Junior menu, Marcus Wareing’s restaurant offers a Culinary Kids tasting menu to encourage further exploration of food. The mini seven-course journey comes with recipe cards, so budding chefs can cook their favourite courses at home.

Tredwells has also joined forces with the RSC to form an exclusive partnership with Matilda the Musical at nearby Cambridge Theatre. The bespoke, child-friendly menu (“eggstra-ordinarily awesome” omelettes with “perky peas and bravo broccoli” and “magnificent” meatballs) inspired by the Roald Dahl classic is available throughout summer until 31 August.

tredwells.com

The Duke of Richmond, E8 (Dalston)

There was a time when children weren’t even allowed in pubs, but The Duke of Richmond takes it to the other extreme by being so baby- and child-friendly. As well as a kids’ menu (they can eat for free every Friday afternoon), high chairs and baby-change facilities for both mums and dads, it runs a Tuesday and Thursday lunch club for parents between midday and 4pm.

The two-course lunch costs £15 (including a glass of wine or beer) and staff put down mats and toys for babies. Co-owner Meryl Fernandes says: “We encourage parents to bring their friends, National Childbirth Trust crews or just themselves. Being a new mum or dad can be lonely, so we really want to provide a weekly outlet for parents – somewhere to hang out and make new friends.”

thedukeofrichmond.com

Jinjuu, W1 (Soho)

Judy Joo’s contemporary Korean street-food restaurant on Kingly Street offers a three-course children’s menu, including beef and pork steamed dumplings, mini bibimbap bowls, and sae-woo pops (fried prawn cakes with aïoli).

jinjuu.com

Child-friendly restaurants across the UK…

Felin Fach Griffin, Brecon, Powys

The Felin Fach Griffin restaurant-with-rooms encourages children to join their parents for dinner but younger visitors who need to eat early can have high tea at 5.30pm. Served at a table near the games box, it includes fresh fish fillet with chips, and spaghetti with meatballs. All children’s meals come with a complimentary glass of local apple juice from the Aber Valley.

As well as a large kitchen garden to explore, kids visiting Felin Fach Griffin are well catered for all year round, with Easter egg hunts, pumpkin carving and local competitions, including who can grow the tallest sunflower.

felinfachgriffin.co.uk

Mollie’s Diner, Buckland, Oxfordshire

Owned by Soho House, this retro 1950s-style diner in the heart of the Cotswolds has an impressive menu for smaller folk: cod goujons, mac ’n’ cheese, and avocado and sweetcorn salad, all at £6, including crinkle-cut fries and a drink. The activity sheets are excellent, too, with a food-related word-search, dot-to-dot, and a huge colouring sheet depicting burgers, milkshakes and classic Cadillacs.

Click here to read our full review of Mollie’s Diner

molliesmotel.com

Rockfish, Exeter

Mitch Tonks has five grown-up children, but he still remembers how hard it was to find good-quality, child-friendly restaurants when they were growing up. “We wanted somewhere with really good food and wines, where younger members of the family were welcomed without it feeling like a soft-play area,” says Mitch, who runs a collection of Rockfish family seafood restaurants around the south coast.

“At Rockfish, we want to get everyone eating great seafood, whatever their age. So we have high chairs, of course, but also a great children’s menu.” As well as grilled local fish and retro ice-cream sundaes, Rockfish has designed Ocean Protector Packs so kids can learn about seafood and the environment while they eat.

It includes a beach-clean bag, a wooden dolphin jigsaw, word-searches and a card game (it’s like a fishy version of Old Maid, and the person left holding the plastic bottle card is the loser). Diners also get a stamp every time their child eats at Rockfish, and after five tokens they get an exclusive t-shirt. Mitch even encourages kids (and their parents) to draw on the paper tablecloths: the best doodles end up on the walls and website.

therockfish.co.uk

Southside Scran, Edinburgh

Tom Kitchin’s restaurant welcomes kids until 10pm, and serves an excellent menu for them (including mussels and fries). But it also offers half-size portions of adult dishes for those under-12s adventurous enough to try the likes of North Sea plaice wrapped in pancetta, for example.

Check out more places to eat and drink in Edinburgh here

southsidescran.com

The Elephant, Torquay

Stuffier Michelin-starred establishments might baulk at the thought of children in their restaurant but as a father of three, chef/owner Simon Hulstone positively encourages it. The Elephant is one of the few Michelin-starred restaurants with a separate kids’ menu for under-12s, at a reasonable £6.95 for main course, dessert and drink.

The choices include fish of the day with vegetables and potatoes, omelettes made with eggs from a local farm, and homemade ice cream. Simon says: “I’m constantly trying to get my children to eat new foods, as well as healthier alternatives. So we’ve devised a menu to incorporate fresh, seasonal and local produce, but still with an eye on pleasing our young diners.”

elephantrestaurant.co.uk

The Old Manse of Blair, Pitlochry, Perthshire

The Old Manse of Blair owners, Anne and Archie MacDonald, actively welcome families to their Cairngorms National Park hotel and its new restaurant, The Orangery. Head chef Jonathan Greer uses local Highlands ingredients (including venison from the local estates, Perthshire lamb and Arbroath smokies) in his new Inbetweeners menu for teenagers.

Anne says: “It was created following extensive research by our 11-year-old twins, who canvassed their school friends in several surveys.” The menu includes chicken fajita pizza with free-range chicken breast; sausages from the local butcher; and estate-reared Aberdeen Angus 4oz burgers with Orkney cheddar and triple-cooked chips from the family’s own potatoes. Anne says: “We want to produce a foodie experience that is as fresh and delicious as possible, with the aim of engaging young diners with their food.”

theoldmanseofblair.com

Zindiya, Birmingham

Zindiya is a contemporary Indian street-food restaurant run by Ajay and Shivani Kenth. Their concept was to create an immersive experience of India in a casual and fun environment. The children’s menu has been developed by the couple’s six-year-old daughter, Diya, who the restaurant is named after. The Little Zindiyans children’s menu includes Indian school lunchbox favourite, aloo paratha (flatbread filled with potatoes and served with yogurt), a fresh salad and chicken tikka wrap, and Indian-inspired fish ’n’ chips.

Dessert could be Indian rice pudding, or Zindiya’s take on gol gappe (crispy chocolate balls filled with strawberries and served with vanilla ice cream), which is a common street snack in India. The beautifully designed menu, also made by Diya (who is anti-phone/tablet at the dining table), features a word-search, colouring and facts about India.

zindiya.co.uk

B-Block Pizza, Keynsham, Bristol

In the former Cadbury’s chocolate factory between Bristol and Bath, this family-orientated pizza restaurant hosts free screenings of child-friendly films at its on-site cinema. The showings start mid-afternoon, followed by a pizza and drink deal (£15 for adults and £7.50 for children).

b-blockpizza.co.uk

Bar 44, Cardiff

This buzzing tapas bar in central Cardiff encourages youngsters to eat well. The Ninos menu means kids can choose four, five or six plates for £4/£5/£6 per plate, with options such as patatas bravas, cured anchovies, crispy whole squid and jamón croquetas. There’s also a selection of kids’ mocktails to choose from.

bar44.co.uk/cardiff

Brassica, Beaminster, Dorset

Louise Chidgey and Cass Titcombe’s son, Jesse, was two years old when they opened Brassica in 2014, and he has since spent a lot of time in the restaurant. It’s perhaps why Brassica is so child-friendly, down to a toy box situated under a banquette, so accessible to small children. Brassica doesn’t have a huge children’s set menu, preferring to offer any dish on the menu at half size and half price, but it does list a simple pasta dish and a piece of grilled hake with fries, as well as ice cream with salted caramel to finish.

Louise says: “A lot of families opt for charcuterie and bread to start things off, as they’re popular with all ages. As are our trifles and sundaes, which can be smaller for children.” The couple stopped selling all commercially made fizzy drinks a year ago, and instead make three seasonal fruit purées which are mixed with sparkling mineral water.

brassicarestaurant.co.uk

Market House, Altrincham, Greater Manchester

Family is big at the award-winning Altrincham Market, not least because it’s run by Nick Johnson and Jenny Thompson, who have four children of their own. Particularly popular with kids are the freshly made sourdough pizzas at Honest Crust; delicious pancakes and galettes from Fold; and the moreish handmade cakes and buns from Wolfhouse. Market House Coffee always has a great selection of soft drinks and handmade cake pops in fun designs, too. Award-winning pie maker Great North Pie Co even makes pies with smiley faces.

The market itself is great for teaching little ones where their food comes from, as children can walk around the stalls and meet local producers. There are also lots of hot-food stalls, providing the opportunity to try new things, and dishes are often cooked in situ so kids can see how they’re made. The market features a different “easy peasy” recipe every week, encouraging kids (and adults) to buy the ingredients at the market, make it at home, and send in a photo of the results.

With four seating areas to choose from, there’s also plenty of room for buggies and a cosy play area for kids with a selection of books and toys.

altrinchammarket.co.uk

Pip’s Lopen, Somerset

Occupying an 1850s railway carriage and an old double-decker bus with a marquee attached, Pip’s has communal tables where families chat over dishes created from organic food grown on the nearby farm. Outside, there are picnic benches for the summer months with a children’s mud kitchen, sandbox and plenty of grass to run around on.

The children’s menu costs £6 (including a drink) and might feature a mini picnic of cheddar toastie, pork pie and “farm” slaw; or flowerpot hummus and veggie “bugs”, such as celery stick “snails”.

facebook.com/PipsRailwayCarriage

The Pigs, Edgefield, Norfolk

Children visiting The Pigs get to pick from an extensive menu that includes smoked chicken and bacon salad, and fish fingers served with “what you want with it” (mash, chips, boiled carrots, buttered new potatoes, garden peas, sweetcorn, cucumber or baked beans). The pub-with-rooms has also created a mini version of the pub outside, including a treehouse and zip wire. If it’s raining, children can make use of the indoor play area with its Lego, Brio train track, kitchen, pool table and table football.

thepigs.org.uk

White Row Farm, Frome, Somerset

What makes White Row unique is that it doesn’t sell its produce to other businesses. So everything in the café, including the meat, is sourced directly from the farm. Since the early 1990s, the farm has reared its own pigs and all of the eggs used come from the 350 chickens in the fields surrounding the café.

White Row also has an award-winning fishmongers and fish ’n’ chip shop serving MSC-approved fish. Child-size fish ’n’ chips portions are part of the For the Kids menu, which also includes a mini ploughman’s. Little ones can run it all off in an outdoor play park, and also meet piglets, rabbits, hens and alpacas.

whiterowfarm.co.uk

Words by Mark Taylor

Photographs by Steve Ryan, Paul Massey, Soho House, Marc Millar Photography

Tony Naylor’s top kid-friendly restaurants in the UK

The Lord Nelson, Burton Joyce, Nottinghamshire

As well as serving cracking grub (say, fish pie or rare-breed pork belly from Whipling Vale Farm with seasonal greens and apple sauce), chef John Molnar’s Moleface pubs are embedded in their communities. All four run weekly coffee ‘n’ cake mornings for new and expectant mums and the Lord Nelson, in leafy Burton Joyce, is a real boon for parents.

Its sunny, south-facing garden includes a huge sandpit and an Astro-turfed five-a-side pitch for kids and, in summer, it has its own outdoor pizza kitchen and a vintage bicycle ice-cream stall. On rainy days, children are given Etch-A-Sketches to keep them happy as they await their freshly-cooked Mini Moles dishes (mains, £6). Mains from £12.50; molefacepubcompany.co.uk

WIFI | High chairs | Children’s menu | At-table activities | Food from 5:30pm | Dogs welcome (bar only)

Calcot Manor, Tetbury, Gloucestershire

Set in 220 acres, historic Calcot is an imposing pile but the atmosphere is far from stuffy. There are two play-zones with entertainment for kids of all ages and outdoor activities from football to horse-riding, which those visiting to dine can tap-into like residents (rooms from £199). Most families eat in the Gumstool Inn, enjoying dishes such as local sausage ‘n’ mash with red onion jam and crispy shallots.

However, the Sunday lunch family feast served in the airy Conservatory restaurant (from £23pp) looks a winner, particularly for a special celebration. It might, for example, feature platters of langoustines and Iberico croquettes followed by roast organic beef from the Calcot estate. A separate children’s menu is served in both dining spaces (mains from £6). Gumstool mains from £12; calcotmanor.co.uk

WIFI | High chairs | Children’s menu | At-table activities

Science Cream, Cardiff

Like Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck, Science Cream uses liquid nitrogen to instantly freeze its gelato. That process produces an incredibly dense, smooth scoop that, thanks to Science Cream’s use of all-natural ingredients, also has
a remarkable clarity of flavour.

Kids will love the science lab look of the place, all exhaust pipes and swirling nitrogen, while adults will adore the salted caramel with homemade honeycomb. Children can also play board games that Science Cream borrows from Cardiff shop, Rules Of Play, and visiting canines are treated to free doggucinnos (frothy milk). 12-6pm, daily. From £3.95; sciencecream.co.uk

WIFI | High chairs | Dogs welcome

Fat Loaf, Sale, Manchester

In a perfect world, every suburb would have a Fat Loaf, a casual modern restaurant which serves affordable food of surprising quality, where kids (look at the drawings that decorate the open-kitchen) are very much welcome. You regularly see the tables pushed together for big family parties here, at which the adults coo over dishes as diverse as sausage roll with pickled onion and quince chutney or an epic cheese and onion pie with buttered greens and mustard sauce. The children’s menu (mains £5) is crowned with DIY sundaes that allow the nippers to add sprinkles and jellies to local Dunham Massey Farm ice cream. Mains from £11.50; thefatloaf.co.uk

WIFI | HIgh chairs | Children’s menu | At-table activities | Food from 5:30pm | Dogs weclome

Brandling Villa, Newcastle

Live gigs! Film nights! Video game tournaments! This South Gosforth pub is a hip place with a lot going on. Not least for dogs. Pampered pets can enjoy, not just water and Pedigree treats from the bar, but their own dog meals including a pig’s ear taco (£4.95). Kids big and small will love the Brandling’s NY-style deli ‘sammidges’ and its terrific burgers made using patties from Northumberland Sausage Company.

Board games such as Trivial Pursuit™ and Guess Who? provide further entertainment. If beaten by a 10-year-old, console yourself with one of the pub’s 10 crafty cask ales (pint from £3.30)
Mains from £7.95; brandlingvilla.co.uk

Cloud WIFI | High chairs | Children’s menu | At-table activites | Food all day | Dogs welcome

La Favorita, Edinburgh

All kids love pizza but not every pizza restaurant will satisfy picky, foodie parents. La Favorita on Leith Walk is a slick, buzzy, family-friendly pizzeria (waiting staff are all smiles with the little ’uns, and come armed with crayons, pencils and menus to colour-in), that uses 48-hour, air-proved dough, quality Italian ingredients and a wood-fired oven to produce a cracking slice.

Expect thin and pliable, nicely charred bases, whether you go for classic margherita – the tomato sauce vibrant, the mozzarella creamy – or Napoletana finished with fiery Calabrian ’nduja sausage. Sensibly, it is not used on
the children’s menu (mains, £5). Pizza from £8.95; vittoriagroup.co.uk

WIFI | High chairs | Children’s menu | At-table activities | Food all day

The Green Café, Ludlow, Shropshire

In theory, chef Clive Davis’ seriously foodie daytime café (with rustic seasonal dishes such as tagliatelle, baby chard, lemon and parmesan cream; or a warm salt beef brisket bap with piccalilli), sounds like a hard-sell to kids. But Clive will happily serve his gnocchi with a simple tomato sauce for toddlers, bakes ace cakes (children love his brownies), and he keeps a collection of retro board games and old Beano comics on-site.

And did we mention the location? The Green Café sits on a grassy common by a weir. Kids can run around and paddle in the River Teme. Lunch 12-2.30pm. Mains around £9; @greencafeludlow

High chairs | At-table activities | Dogs welcome

Porthminster Café, St Ives, Cornwall

Not only is Australian chef-owner Michael Smith’s pan-Asian fish cookery on-point (Nathan Outlaw is a fan), but the café’s terrace allows parents to kick-back and relax while their kids play nearby on this beautiful Blue Flag beach (terrace open all-year, enclosed/heated on colder days).

The children’s menu (mains around £5) generally features six dishes, which are often simplified, healthier versions of the adult mains, such as grilled or battered fish with chips, salad or potatoes. Discerning parents must try the crispy squid with citrus miso or Michael’s signature monkfish curry with jasmine rice and sweet chilli tamarind. Mains from £16; porthminstercafe.co.uk

WIFI | High chairs | Children’s menu | At-table activities

The Allanton Inn, Allanton, Berwickshire

As parents themselves, the Allanton’s owners William and Katrina Reynolds know that, in order for mum and dad to enjoy their meal, the kids need entertaining. Chef Craig Rushton confidently deploys seasonal Borders produce, in everything from inventive scotch eggs to dishes such as hand-dived scallops and charred leeks in a bacon-onion broth, but one of the chief attractions at this spruce country inn is how well kitted-out it is for kids.

There are building games and craft kits in the dining room, outdoor toys in the enclosed beer garden and, at Easter, Katrina organises egg hunts for the children after they have tucked into homemade fish goujons or local sausages and mash (mains, £4.95). Mains from £12; allantoninn.co.uk

WIFI | High chairs | Children’s menu | At-table activities

Nag’s Head, Haughton, Cheshire

When not guiding his one-Michelin-starred kitchen at Northcote near Blackburn, Nigel Haworth runs several of Britain’s best family-friendly pubs. This smartly renovated 17th-century inn is no exception. From local walking guides around Beeston Castle to games of croquet and swingball on the lawn, the Nag’s Head is all set-up for a full day of fun.

Dogs are welcome, too. The children’s menu promises real food (‘Not a chicken nugget in sight,’ as one employee puts it; two-courses £7.50), while grown-ups can feast on great steaks and burgers or Nigel’s northern classics such as Lancashire hotpot or Leagram’s organic curd with Ascroft’s beetroot on a buttered crumpet. Friday’s cut-price ‘chippy tea’ night (5pm-7pm) is a family favourite. Mains from £11; nagsheadhaughton.co.uk

WIFI | High chairs | Children’s menu | At-table activities | Food from 5:30pm | Dogs welcome

Words: Tony Naylor

Photographs: Owen Mathias, Andrew Irwin, Chris Humphreys, Bacononthebeech.com, Kiss Photography

Looking for places to stay in Zanzibar? Want a luxury resort by the beach? Read our review of sleek, stylish hotel Zuri and book here.

Zuri in a nutshell

A tranquil 55-bedroom beachside resort with a sustainable ethos and stylish design.

The vibe

As you’d expect of a member of the Design Hotels group, style is key at Zuri. Under the guidance of designers Jestico + Whiles, the architecture carefully balances modern design with local, natural materials; this slick island retreat features lots of cool concrete, mahogany and limestone.

Guest rooms – suites, bungalows and villas – are scattered between cottages in a series of spice ‘villages’ dotted around the leafy 32-acre resort and connected by a network of pebbled paths. As you wind your way between cottage and beach you’ll find little alcoves to relax in, shaded by baobab trees and with just the swish of palm trees for company. A private sandy beach, strung with hammocks, is licked by the emerald waves of the Indian Ocean. Or, if you’d rather get active, do laps of the infinity pool, or push-ups at the outdoor jungle gym.

Which room should I book at Zuri?

Whether you’re in a bungalow, suite or villa you’re guaranteed luxury. An indoor-outdoor approach gives a real sense of outdoor living with private plant-shaded terraces and open-air showers. When it’s time to sleep, however, modern luxuries come into play. Not least the Evening Breeze system built into each bed, offering cold, cool and fresh temperatures that you can control with a remote.

Thoughtful touches include kangas (traditional dresses worn by the women of the Swahili coast) waiting in your room on arrival in place of standard hotel gowns, and chewy coconut cookies left as part of the turndown service on your first night.

All rooms feature side tables carved from tree trunks and natural toiletries made with Zanzibar seaweed but if you want to spend a little more, the ocean-front villas also have private living areas, jacuzzis and their own, secluded stretch of beach.

The food and drink

Choose from three restaurants dotted around the resort. Maisha (‘life’) is a breezy poolside spot serving light snacks and local seafood. Take a seat on the terrace and tuck into prawn tacos, crayfish linguine or mezze platters of olive tapenade, pickled vegetables and pittas.

If you’re after something more low-key, the buzzy Bahari (‘sea’) beach bar serves lunch throughout the day. Sink into squidgy sofas and sip on fiery ginger lassis, or perch at the bar and try juicy king prawn skewers with chimichurri sauce and seared tuna salads. Don’t miss out on dessert; peanut cookies sandwiching a scoop of sweet banana ice cream make an ideal mid-afternoon pick-me-up.

Breakfast and dinner are served in the resort’s main restaurant, Ubudo (‘love’). The menu changes each night but typical dishes range from a buffet of Mediterranean classics to fancy five-course set menus. Zanzibar grew up as a major hub on the spice-trading routes, so its cuisine is a blend of African, Indian and Middle Eastern flavours, and the Swahili dinners are where the kitchen really shines. Help yourself from pots filled with fragrant chicken pilau, made-to-order chapattis, fried green bananas, smoky aubergine slithers and jammy mango chutney. If you’ve room, make yourself a concoction of vanilla cream with dates, halva, cardamom syrup, coconut and sesame brittle for dessert.

Breakfast

A buffet-style spread of cold options can be beefed up with made-to-order hot options. Help yourself to bowls brimming with fresh-from-the-tree mango and passion fruit, or the dozen or so homemade varieties, made with local fruits, on the jam station (try tangy pineapple on slices of Madeira cake or sweet, sticky date on squidgy banana bread).

Join the queue for a frilly crêpe or a fluffy waffle then top it with caramelised banana, grated coconut and local honey. After something savoury? Chilli-spiked omelettes with spring onion and tomato pack a punch, with slices of chargrilled aubergine and courgette to pile on the side.

There’s a smoothie counter too, with a different choice every day; think avocado and soursop, banana and papaya or even bungo juice (this orange fruit tastes a little like orange, pineapple and mango mixed together and gives a refreshingly sharp start to your day).

What else can foodies do?

Try the Swahili dinner, then cook some of its components yourself with the help of chef John. Hidden away in the spice garden is an outdoor kitchen where you can prepare the likes of pweza ya nazi (octopus in coconut), sambusa ya nyama (beef samosas) and pilau ya kuku (spice rice with chicken). Don an apron and learn how to fold samosas, fry chapattis and grate coconut the traditional way. After the two-hour session, feast on rich spinach and coconut curry, fluffy turmeric-fried potato croquettes and a zingy tomato, red onion and lime salad.

Guided tours of the spice garden take place every day, too. Let Adam explain to you the different types of plant and what they’re used for. Taste bitter cinnamon bark, freshly peeled from the tree, or take in the perfumed scent of fresh jasmine. From mango and custard apple to cardamom, baobab, black pepper and vanilla, everything seems to grow in abundance.

If you want to explore outside the resort, a trip to Stone Town (the pretty old town area of the island’s capital, Zanzibar City) takes two hours by taxi, and the hotel can organise a guide to show you the sights. Pop to Puzzle Coffee Shop for cold-brew coffees made with Tanzanian beans and Lukmaan restaurant for freshly grilled kingfish with a side of banana. 1001 Organic is a must-visit, a social enterprise working with 26 small-scale farmers in the forests of Pemba (the second largest island in the Zanzibar Archipelago) who then sell the spices in their small shop. Smell and taste before you buy, from sweet cinnamon, ginger-infused salt and floral black pepper.

Is it family friendly?

Children are welcome and a babysitting service is available on request, however restaurants don’t open till 7.30 in the evening, and with little else to do except eat, sleep and swim, it’s geared more towards honeymooners than families.

olive tip

Take time to find out more about the island by practising Swahili with Revocatus in the restaurant, having impromptu history lessons with Is’haka by the pool, or taking tree-climbing tips from Adam in the spice garden.

Book your stay at Zuri, Zanzibar here

zurizanzibar.com

Words and photographs by Ellie Edwards, June 2019

Looking for hotels in Amsterdam? Want to know where to stay in Amsterdam Noord? Read on for the best hotels in the Netherlands’ capital…

SWEETS Hotel, Wiegbrug

In a nutshell

Disused canal bridge operator cabins, cleverly transformed into unique suites sleeping two.

Why foodies stay here

These so-called bridge houses don’t have kitchens but they do come with mini fridges, teapots and coffee machines. Use a bespoke in-room tablet to pick a restaurant for dinner, with help from a complimentary local area guide. Accessible only by boat, Bridge House 206 Amstelschutsluis (which dates back to 1673) is an exception: it comes with a fully equipped kitchen, a fridge full of groceries and, if you fancy eating out, four boat crossings with the SWEETS hotel captain to dry land.

What are the rooms like?

Despite being part of one hotel, the bedrooms are scattered across town with each space occupying its own prime location. Open your curtains to boats bobbing past the windows and bicycles whizzing along adjacent towpaths. Each cabin comes simply decorated with wooden shelving units and white linen, with pops of colour from the crockery, books and vases of flowers.

Breakfast

You can order a typically Dutch breakfast box of boiled eggs, fruit, bread rolls and fresh orange juice to be delivered to your doorstep.

Where to eat and drink nearby

Consult your complimentary area guide to track down the best foodie spots in each location, from cheesy croquettes at De Ysbreeker to freshly-baked stroopwafel at Albert Cuyp Market.

Click here to book your stay at SWEETS Hotel

sweetshotel.amsterdam

The Hoxton, Amsterdam, Herengracht

In a nutshell

A hip hotel in a historic canal house, with more than 100 bedrooms (of varying styles and sizes) to choose from.

Why foodies stay here

Lively neighbourhood restaurant Lotti’s, which serves all-day brasserie-style dishes, occupies the ground floor space. Munch on traditional bitterballen, truffle fries and cheese croquettes while you sip on A Dutch Tale, a citrusy mix of vodka, bergamot, grapefruit and soda water. Share small plates of watermelon ceviche with sesame, or pickled mackerel with garlic crumble and grated tomato, before moving on to slow-cooked beef cheeks with orzo and wild spinach.

What are the rooms like?

Choose from four sizes, starting with Shoebox (the clue’s in the name) then Snug, Cosy and, the largest of the four, Roomy. Compact Shoebox rooms still have queen-size beds and walk-in showers, while Roomy ones are home to squidgy sofas and are dog-friendly. If you fancy wine or beer in your room, head to the front desk where you can buy bottles at supermarket prices.

Breakfast

Order Japanese porridge with spring onions, pickled ginger and a poached egg, or banana spelt chocolate pancakes with a side of bacon. If you want something lighter, grilled watermelon comes with feta, pumpkin seeds, lemon thyme and honey. Or, go for a Sunny Juice, packed with carrot, orange, ginger, chilli and turmeric. Got a sweet tooth? Order a slice of apple pie with whipped cream.

Where to eat and drink nearby

Take the ferry over to Noord for an equally hip dinner at Hotel Goudfazant. In this waterfront restaurant (don’t be fooled by the name – it’s not a hotel) you can sit and eat on what look like school tables, laid with white tablecloths, served by a team of t-shirted waiting staff. One of the city’s most long-established warehouse restaurants, food and wine are good value for money, with an emphasis on French cooking and a seasonal menu.

Book a night at The Hoxton here

thehoxton.com/holland

Kimpton De Witt, Central Station

In a nutshell

A slick hotel in the heart of the city centre, with over 200 bedrooms.

Why foodies stay here

The hotel’s in-house Wyers restaurant puts a Dutch twist on American comfort food, with a wood-fired grill as its focus. Try buttermilk fried chicken sarnies or a croque monsieur made with local cheese. For dessert? A peanut butter and jam sandwich, with peanut ice cream.

Super Lyan, the all-day cocktail bar from master mixologist Ryan Chetiyawardana, is the main draw. With a focus on sustainability and innovation, expect to find cocoa butter mixed with rum and raspberry whey with gin. If milkshakes float your boat, try the Millionaire Shake (soy milk, chocolate sorbet and pomegranate).

What are the rooms like?

A palette of grey gives a calm vibe to each space, with pops of brass and emerald green adding a glamorous touch. Along with a fully-stocked minibar (complete with local beer and wine), bedrooms come with yoga mats, rain showers and a gold-dipped porcelain parrot statue. The Penthouse De Witt comes with a spiral staircase and terrace, while the not-so-aptly named Little House is spread over three floors and has two bedrooms and a separate living area.

Breakfast

Brunch at Wyers is a hearty affair. Try buttermilk pancakes topped with pecans, banana and bacon, or a BLTA toastie (bacon, lettuce, tomato and avocado) with pesto mayonnaise.

Where to eat and drink nearby

For fine dining just a 12-minute stroll from the hotel, head to Daalder and try the chef’s tasting menu. The salted caramel ice-cream sandwich take on a stroopwafel is a must.

Get great deals on Kimpton De Witt here

kimptondewitthotel.com

Misc eatdrinksleep, Nieuwmarkt

In a nutshell

A quirky guesthouse with six bedrooms and a cocktail bar.

Why foodies stay here

Rosalia’s Menagerie, a speakeasy-style cocktail bar adorned with velvet armchairs and lavish floral wallpaper, serves locally made spirits and house specials. Order a margarita or try Hazy April, made with orange-spiced white tea. There’s no restaurant, but hop on one of the hotel’s bicycles and you won’t have to pedal far to find somewhere good to eat.

What are the rooms like?

Set in a 17^th-century canal house, this cosy retreat has just six bedrooms, all of which are decorated with an eclectic mix of repro and vintage furniture. Three of the rooms have a canal view, while the others look over a garden. The garden rooms are smaller but tend to be quieter. Afrika on the top floor is the largest, with rustic wooden tables and leather chairs, while La Primavera is made vibrant with bright yellow curtains and bird-print wallpaper. Every room comes with a rain shower and free minibar.

Breakfast

The downstairs bar-cum-café serves a simple buffet-style breakfast, complete with Dutch cheese and homemade granola. Bacon and eggs can be cooked to order.

Where to eat and drink nearby

For cocktails, Wynand Fockink is only four minutes away and serves genever (the Dutch precursor to gin). Or KOKO Coffee & Design offers a koffie verkeerd – the local take on a latte.

Book your stay at Misc eatdrinksleep here

misceatdrinksleep.com

Zoku, Weesperstraat

In a nutshell

Modern apartments for working travellers, with a social kitchen.

Why foodies stay here

The Living Kitchen serves from breakfast through to dinner, at communal sharing tables. Simple, honest food is the focus, with no menus – just an iPad on the wall to order from. Expect toasted brioches with harissa-marinated cottage cheese, avocado and fried eggs, and help-yourself salads piled high with hearty roast veg, such as butternut squash and fennel. There’s always a soup, protein and flatbread on offer, and freshly squeezed juices to sip on.

What are the rooms like?

For a cosy bolthole, book the Bootstrap bedroom with its simple bunk beds, white wardrobes and pot plants. The Zoku room has a double bed with separate working area. If you’re staying for longer, book one of the Loft rooms; a double bed sits on a mezzanine level, while a wooden table and sofa take centre stage downstairs. There’s also a compact kitchen kitted out with a coffee machine, microwave and kettle.

Breakfast

The buffet includes homemade granola, assorted pastries (including waffles and bagels), a selection of cold-cut meats, cheeses and the choice of an extra ‘health’ or egg dish. Opt for a black rice and coconut bowl served with blueberries, or scrambled eggs with smoked salmon and roast tomatoes. If you want something smaller, the continental option includes juice, a croissant and granola-topped Greek yogurt.

Where to eat and drink nearby

For a casual, wholesome lunch, visit vegan-friendly salad bar SLA. Fill up on a green pea and mint falafel bowl, or a raw strawberry and vanilla cheesecake.

Click here to book your stay at Zoku

livezoku.com

Lloyd, Central Station

In a nutshell

A minimalist hotel just five minutes’ walk from Amsterdam’s Central Station.

Why foodies stay here

LLOYD is an all-day restaurant with a dining room fringed with blue-leather booths and a leafy terrace. The focus, with ingredients, is local and organic, though the menu is global. If it’s the right season, order asparagus soup with wild garlic, or steak tartare with crispy cauliflower and piccalilli foam.

What are the rooms like?

All bedrooms have cosseting Auping beds, free wi-fi and unique additions, such as dusty-pink velvet chairs, art-deco glass lamps and Persian rugs. Superior doubles come with king-sized beds, spacious living areas and moreish complimentary bars of Tony’s Chocolonely.

Breakfast

The drinks menu is substantial, and includes everything from pear juice to fresh mint and ginger tea. You can have chocolate milk (cold or warm), or jazz your coffee up with oat, soy or butter milk. Savoury choices are limited to eggs (poached, fried, scrambled or in an omelette) served with a side of ham, salmon or vegetables, while sweet options range from fruit salads to gluten- and sugar-free banana and date cake.

Where to eat and drink nearby

Wilde Zwijnen is all about Dutch food, executed with a light touch. As the name suggests, the restaurant’s signature dish is wild boar, slow-cooked in an earthy stew and served with a side of sweet parsnip crisps.

lloyd.nl

Pulitzer, The Nine Little Streets

In a nutshell

A traditional, upmarket hotel in The Nine Little Streets neighbourhood, with a garden café and glamorous bar.

Why foodies stay here

Take your pick from three foodie spots, all in-house. Pause is a tranquil garden coffee house, complete with greenhouse-style roof and plush velvet chairs; Jansz. is an elegant all-day dining restaurant; and Pulitzer’s Bar was voted best hotel bar in Amsterdam in 2019.  Order diver scallops, salmon with black rice and a Dutch cheese platter at Jansz., before sipping after-dinner drinks at Pulitzer’s Bar. Cocktails are described only by character profiles, so order the Bohemian Evening if you want a fresh, herbal drink, or the Cubano Sato for something long, sweet and fruity.

What are the rooms like?

The canal house bedrooms range from small, cosy spaces to huge suites. They’re all classic in style, with a simple colour scheme (grey walls, white linen and yellow velvet chairs), marble bathrooms and antique furniture, including writing desks and drinks trolleys. Family rooms are split-level, while suites have separate living areas. Extraordinary Suites are custom crafted and curated, with one having a private library, another adorned with modern art, and a third complete with LPs and a vintage record player.

Breakfast

Start your day with an avocado, salmon and quinoa poke bowl, or load up on smoked salmon bagels. There are also classics available (fruit pancakes and cheese omelettes), and fresh beetroot, banana and blueberry smoothies.

Where to eat and drink nearby

Start with morning coffee at Café de Prins, a traditional brown café – so called because it’s where men used to go to drink and smoke. Try prins poffertjes, the house speciality (tiny pancakes with vanilla ice cream and icing sugar).

pulitzeramsterdam.com

Sir Adam, Amsterdam Noord

In a nutshell

A funky boutique hotel with a celebrated burger restaurant at its heart.

Why foodies stay here

Burgers are the focus at THE BUTCHER Social Club, the in-house restaurant open from eight until late. There’s always a veggie option, but meat dominates the menu: try an Aberdeen Angus beef burger topped with lettuce, tomato, grilled onion and truffle glaze. Add edam cheese, bacon or eggs to your burger, along with BBQ sauce, truffle mayonnaise or baba ganoush.

What are the rooms like?

Industrial chic, with brick-style wallpaper, mahogany headboards and grey fur blankets. Every standard bedroom comes with floor-to-ceiling windows, record players, local artwork and a curated mini bar, while the Deluxe City View room looks out over the river. The Sir Suite has a cosy lounge area, freestanding bath and king-size bed.

Breakfast

Rise and shine with made-to-order porridge, Nutella brioche or Belgian waffles. Or go for one of the eggy options, including poached eggs with avocado on sourdough. Smoothies are recommended – try a Super Green, stuffed with broccoli, avocado, spinach and apple.

Where to eat and drink nearby

Amsterdam has a beer for every season, and in autumn and winter it’s herfstbok: a strong, dark beer with a hint of caramel. Taste it with a portion of ossenworst (cold-smoked beef sausage) at Café de Dokter, an atmospheric spot packed with curios collected over more than two centuries.

Book your stay at Sir Adam here

sirhotels.com/en/adam

The Dylan, The Nine Little Streets

In a nutshell

A boutique hotel with 40 individually-designed bedrooms and a Michelin-starred restaurant.

Why foodies stay here

The hotel’s Restaurant Vinkeles was awarded its first Michelin star in 2009. Today the menu is all about classic French cooking, with a contemporary twist. As part of the chef’s signature menu you can try Norwegian scallops with veal marrow, black truffle and celeriac, followed by mandarin sorbet with oatmeal, coriander and cheesecake. À la carte options are more pared back (turbot with artichoke and poultry jus, for example), and a separate all-day brasserie serves light bites (Caesar salad, steak tartare, shrimp croquettes) and homemade spirits infused with herbs.

What are the rooms like?

All 40 bedrooms are in the same, 17th-century, building (which has served as everything from a theatre to a poorhouse during its chequered history). Its current incarnation was designed by Anouska Hempel, and the accommodation ranges from large elegant suites to cosily modern rooms up in the eaves. Each room style offers a different colour palette, from Serendipity’s warm grey shades to Loxura’s copper tones. A canal or garden view is guaranteed, as are Bose sound systems.

Breakfast

Served in the brasserie, there’s a choice of coconut porridge, homemade smoothies, blueberry pancakes or smoked salmon on toasted rye. If you fancy a savoury start, pick miso soup with ramen noodles and pickles.

Where to eat and drink nearby

Choose from a range of tasting menus featuring seasonal ingredients creatively prepared at neighbourhood restaurant, Breda.

dylanamsterdam.com

Conscious Hotel, Westerpark

In a nutshell

There are four Conscious Hotels in Amsterdam, but the newest, Westerpark, is the first hotel in The Netherlands to be powered entirely by wind energy. There are 89 rooms, Roetz bikes to rent (made from discarded frames), and a vegan-friendly restaurant to try.

Why foodies stay here

The main draw is the hotel’s Kantoor bar and restaurant, open all day until late. It’s not exclusively vegetarian, but organic ingredients are transformed into meat-free stars such as nettle risotto, tofu cheesecake with dried tangerine, and broccoli crumble. For dessert, don’t miss the vegan banana bread with banana crumble and cacao sorbet. Carnivores can enjoy lamb shank with adzuki cassoulet, huge seafood platters (oysters, razor clams, mussels, Dutch shrimps and lobster) while there’s also a great children’s menu (young guests can pick everything from the “I don’t like that” fried fish with steamed vegetables to the “I don’t know” tomato soup). The signature cocktail menu is also worth perusing –  try The Boss, made with vodka, kimchi purée and tomato juice.

What are the rooms like?

There are seven types of room to choose from, but all are airy and uncluttered, with iron-frame furniture, light wooden panelling, navy blue feature walls, monochrome bathrooms and spacious Auping beds. The Conscious WOW room is the biggest: it comes with a crater-like freestanding bath, double sinks and a super-king size bed. There’s a park right next to the hotel for morning constitutionals, and a surprisingly beautiful, red brick, former gas works, dating back to the 19^th century, on the other side.

Breakfast

The 100% organic breakfast includes avocado, quinoa and watercress on rye, croissants with homemade compote, omelettes made with eggs “from the happiest chickens” and healthy granola.

Where to eat and drink nearby

For something different, try Rainarai and its colourful, modern take on nomadic Algerian food. Order chicken tagine, merguez sausage, onion dip, stuffed squash and chocolate figs for dessert.

Click here to book your stay at Conscious Hotel

conscioushotels.com

Words by Ellie Edwards

Photographs by Mirjam Bleeker and Pim Ras

Maltese cuisine is as diverse as its culture. Its rich natural larder is celebrated in every dish, and the country’s Arab and Italian influences have shaped many local recipes. Tempted to book a Maltese holiday? Here’s what you absolutely have to try (and where to find it).

Though Malta’s traditional flaky pastries can be found across the country, few are as legendary as the ricotta and pea ones made at Crystal Palace. This café-bar is located just outside the honey-hued walls of medieval Mdina.

84 Triq San-Pawl, Rabat

Malta’s sister island, Gozo, will take you back in time. The island is home to pretty villages, ancient temples, rolling countryside and ġbejniet, a Maltese cheese. It can be made from goat’s or sheep’s milk, and can be enjoyed fresh, pickled or laced with black pepper. Head to shop and restaurant Ta’ Rikardu in Gozo’s Citadel to give it a try – Rikardu makes the cheese (and his own wine) at his farm and vineyard.

visitgozo.com

In Malta, autumn is lampuki (mahi-mahi) season. This delicate, meaty fish is best enjoyed in a traditional lampuki pie with mint, lemon peel and raisins. Head to the charming fishing village of Marsaskala to enjoy lampuki caught using kannizzata, an ancient fishing technique that dates back to Roman times.

maltauk.com

Rabbit and Maltese cuisine go hand in hand. It’s most famously enjoyed in fenkata, a fragrant slow-cooked stew served on special occasions, but it’s also delicious when fried until crispy and golden. Fine dining joint Noni, one of Valletta’s most beloved restaurants, gives the gamey meat a makeover with a moreish rabbit saddle with rabbit confit croquette and roast garlic purée dish.

noni.com.mt

As well as beautiful beaches, Malta’s west coast is also where you’ll find Diar il-Bniet. This idyllic estate in the village of Ħad-Dingli is a champion of farm-to-table dining. Its take on zeppoli (deep-fried pastries stuffed with ricotta) is a testament to Malta’s gloriously sweet tooth – and the perfect way to end any meal.

diarilbniet.com

To plan your trip to the Maltese islands, visit maltauk.com.

Club Marvy in a nutshell

Despite its size (the boho chic resort stretches across 16 hectares of hillside and sandy beach on Turkey’s Aegean coast), Club Marvy retains a sense of intimacy and a commitment to local flavours.

Book your stay at Club Marvy here…

What’s the vibe?

There are plenty of little alcoves to explore: palm trees rock gently in the breeze beside olive trees, sandy coves are home to private beaches (one is adults-only and comes with an Ibiza-esque bar) and neat beds of cacti and exotic plants frame wooden decks and a glistening infinity pool. Inside, it’s airy with soft, muted tones and pops of bright colour from paintings by local artists and vibrant foliage.

Which room should I book?

There are more than 300 rooms dotted around the resort. All continue the stylish, boho theme with muted greys and taupe palettes, Turkish throws on the beds and brushed concrete walls. Compact bathrooms have rainfall showers, handwoven Turkish towels and bespoke bath products made with Değirmen Farm’s olive oil. Sunsets over the Aegean Sea and mountains are sublime, so west-facing rooms in the adults-only part of the resort are worth booking.

Food and drink

As you’d expect from a resort of this size, food and drink options are plentiful. There’s a commitment to local ingredients, with the majority plucked from owner Ece Tonbul’s mother’s organic 200-hectare farm. Expect grassy cold-pressed olive oil, handpicked vine leaves wrapped around sticky rice and exotic fruits (including Malta plums for Marvy cocktails). The latter are shaken with Aegean herb-infused spirits – Aperol spritz is garnished with a vine leaf and dried orange, while G&Ts are laced with sharp little pomegranate seeds.

Eat at the main restaurant for a buffet-style tour of Turkey and beyond. The Turkish station showcases traditional dishes such as deep-fried manti dumplings filled with minced lamb, glistening vegetables and spiced chicken stew. There’s a whole section dedicated to mezze – grilled aubergine, stuffed vine leaves and a huge range of salads. Elsewhere you can watch a whole sea bass grilled to order, slide pieces of lamb from charcoaled skewers, and pile your plate high with baklava and pomegranate ice cream.

The adults-only Değirmen restaurant, named after Club Marvy’s farm, offers a more intimate atmosphere. Perched on top of a cliff, it enjoys sensational sunset views – tuck into an à la carte menu of artichoke salad, lamb shish kebab, and deconstructed pavlova while the sun paints the sky blood orange as it disappears behind the mountains.

The latest culinary addition to the resort is Buono Italiano, an upmarket Italian restaurant run in partnership with Rome’s first Michelin-starred female chef, Cristina Bowerman. Cristina makes the most of the local larder in a menu that includes tagliolini with almond milk and lemon, and beef fillet with black garlic sauce.

Breakfast

The ‘village’ breakfast at the Değirmen restaurant is a must. Gorge on flaky boyos breads, hummus, sticky honey, fresh cheese and sundried tomato dips, alongside made-to-order eggs and Turkish tea and coffee presented on a gold platter.

What else is there for foodies to do?

If you’re flying into Izmir, factor in time to explore the old bazaar area. It buzzes with vendors flogging everything from fried sardine sandwiches to jewel-like Turkish delight and colourful spices. Sit on the red fabric benches of Dönerci Ömer Usta café for Turkish tea in dainty glasses (or strong and syrupy coffee) while eyeing up cherries, melons and dates on the neighbouring vendor’s wooden cart.

Is it family friendly?

Absolutely. Though it’s feasible to go as a couple and not be disturbed by other people’s children, kids are well catered for. Family rooms include extra beds and cots, and there are child-friendly options at most of the restaurants. There’s even a supervised waterpark and a busy list of activities to keep small people occupied while parents enjoy the adults-only Boho Beach Club, Turkish hammam or white-curtained massage cabana (which hovers soothingly above the Aegean Sea).

olive says

If you’re travelling without children, visit Club Marvy off-season to make the most of great-value rooms and quieter beaches.

Rates at Club Marvy start from £126 per double, all-inclusive (clubmarvy.com). Packages including flights to Izmir’s Adnan Menderes airport, transfers and accommodation are also available with Thomas Cook (click here to book).

Words by Alex Crossley

This week digital editor Alex and freelance travel contributor Charlotte chat about their trips to Slovenia, comparing the lively capital to the country’s rural landscapes and restaurants. They explore field-to-fork cooking, orange wines and herb-infused spirits, as well as the influence of neighbouring Italy on Slovenia’s cuisine.

Looking for the best music festival to visit this summer? Want to feast at the UK’s best food festivals? Read on for our guide to festivals for food and music lovers…

Wilderness

One of the hottest food events of the year, Wilderness festival in Oxfordshire combines the off-beat fun of the modern British music festival (woodland walks, feasts around the campfire, wild swimming, and, of course, a top-notch music line-up) with seriously good food.

Join one of the long table banquets to enjoy fine wines and bespoke menus from Michelin starred chefs James Knappett and Tom Aikens. Sit in one of the festival’s field restaurant tents and try Italian dishes from Café Murano or a seasonal menu from Petersham Nurseries.

Some of the country’s top chefs will also be hosting chefs’ tables – cosy up to Nieves Barragán of Sabor, Dan Smith of The Fordwich Arms, Neil Borthwick of The French House, Soho and Tom Brown from Cornerstone. With appearances from many other restaurants – including Patty & Bun, Pizza Pilgrims and Smokestak – this festival is a one-stop trip around some of Britain’s finest culinary hotspots.

1 – 4 August, Cornbury Park, Oxfordshire; wildernessfestival.com

Valley Fest

A true celebration of all things South West, Valley Fest (from the team behind Yeo Valley) brings together DJs, farmers and local producers. Basement Jaxx, Razorlight and Tom Odell will provide the tunes, while the region’s culinary heroes will be cooking up a feast. Josh Eggleton of Pony and Trap and Rob Howell of Root will be serving a six-course feast using produce grown on the farm, so expect cured sea bream with cucumber, gnocchi with Isle of Wight tomatoes and Strode Valley salad leaves and lemon leaf cream for dessert.

Talks and walks will take place across the three days, so learn more about the local bees and wildlife, tour the farm or listen to Jo Ingleby, Chloe Smee and Zoe Williams discuss how we can connect children with food.

2 – 4 August, Chew Valley Lake, Somerset; valleyfest.co.uk

Smoked and Uncut

Three mini festivals taking place at the two Pig hotels and the slightly fancier Limewood hotel across three afternoons this summer, each Smoked & Uncut event promises local bands, blankets and hay bales as well as gourmet food stalls, local ciders and ales and the odd glass or two of English sparkling wine. How very civilised.

Get ready for the legendary BBQ with short ribs, venison burgers, corn-on-the cob and more. Chefs Mark Hix and Angela Hartnett will be cooking al fresco family-style feasts, so save room for hearty curries and plates of pasta, too.

June to July, Hampshire and Somerset; smokedanduncut.com

Port Eliot Festival

This celebration of words, music, imagination, ideas, nature, food, fashion, flowers, laughter, exploration and fun (try and tick them all off during its four-day line-up) is set in the grounds of Port Eliot House, a stately home in the far east of Cornwall.

Like the rest of the event, food talks here have a literary and ideas-driven focus. More a place to question your own approach to – and relationship with – food than to pick up cooking tips (though there will be plenty of those too), guest speakers this year include Polly Russell and Olia Hercules.

A selection of street food chefs will be setting up stalls on the lawn (choose between za’atar, minced lamb and olive oil-topped flatbreads, vegan sushi from Happy Maki and salt and pepper squid from Elseafood). There will also be live demonstrations from James Whetlor, Zoe Adjonyoh and Russell Norman, as well as a series of wood fired suppers hosted by Ben Quinn and his team.

25 – 28 July, Port Eliot, Cornwall; porteliotfestival.com

Camp Bestival

The Dorset outpost of the Isle of Wight festival has a lot to offer foodies in its Feast Collective food and drink section. Highlights include demonstrations from DJ BBQ, local producers setting up stall at Dorset Farmers’ Market and street-food from Butchies, Happy Maki and Baked in Brick.

The Feast Collective Bar will keep your thirst at bay with beers from Cornwall’s Sharp’s Brewery and Thatchers cider.

25 – 28 July, Lulworth Castle, Dorset; campbestival.net

WOMAD

Musicians from around the world will congregate in Wiltshire this July to share and celebrate world music, food and culture. Listen to the likes of Salif Keita, Anna Calvi, Orbital and Ziggy Marley, then head to the Taste The World stage; here, artists rustle up their favourite dishes from their home countries, leave them to cook while they play their gigs then return to let everyone taste the results. Expect ‘Borscht’ soup from Ukraine’s Dhakabrakha and home-made Turkish dumplings from Baba Zula.

25 – 28 July, Charlton Park, Wilthsire; womad.co.uk

Green Man

The spectacular Brecon Beacons provide an idyllic backdrop for this boho music festival with a great foodie offering. Meat eaters rejoice, as there will be a selection of hand-salted bacon and sausages from Charcutier Ltd, burgers from Cardiff-based The Grazing Shed and spit-roasts from Roaming Rotisserie. For a taste of the sea, try Weldhman’s caviar and laverbread from street food joint Café Mor or crab burgers from Claw.

Stop off at The Courtyard, where over twenty Welsh breweries will be showcasing the best ales, ciders and perries.

15 – 18 August, Brecon Beacons, Wales; greenman.net

The Big Feastival

A star-studded line up sees the likes of Rudimental and Jess Glynne sharing the spotlight with Raymond Blanc, Chantelle Nicholson and Tom Brown at this Cotswolds festival that caters as well for music lovers as it does for food lovers.

Well-loved street food trucks will be there to offer sustenance after dancing the night away – try Farang, Sub Cult or Million Pound Menu’s BBQ Dreamz – and don’t miss the chance to watch two-Michelin starred Daniel Clifford and national treasure Prue Leith demonstrate some impressive tips and tricks in the NEFF Big Kitchen.

23 – 25 August, Kingham, Oxfordshire; thebigfeastival.com

River Cottage Festival

Based at River Cottage’s Devon HQ, expect a relaxed affair complete with local cider and a mud kitchen for the kids. On the Saturday, take your seat at the long table banquet and feast over fire, when Persian-Welsh chef Leyli Homayoonfar will be cooking up a supper of BBQ scorched mackerel, saffron marinated skewered chicken kabab and Persian orange blossom pavlova.

More reasons to visit? Masterclasses will take place across the two days, from natural wine tastings to wood-fired cooking sessions. River Cottage’s wild food expert, John Wright, will lead foraging expeditions around local hedgerows to gather botanicals to infuse into drinks while Somerset Cider Brandies will be offering tasters of the apple-based booze.

24 – 25 August, Axminster, Devon; rivercottage.net

The Big Cwtch

The Big Cwtch celebrates Wales’ best food producers and emerging Welsh artists in a bewitching lakeside setting. Rock down to the street food alley where you can grab a slow-braised pork shoulder taco from The Bearded Taco, chicken laksa from Makasih and berry cheesecakes from Duttys Cheesecake Van. Or make for the lakeside and chill out with a G&T.

There will also be pop-up pubs to relax in, including the Wonky Table and Après Ski Bar, where you can enjoy local craft beers.

30 – 31 August, Crugybar, Carmarthenshire; thebigcwtch.com

Best places to eat pizza in London…

Whether you’re after a New York-style slice or an artisanal sourdough base, London is home to some of the UK’s top pizzerias. Pizza Pilgrims feels like an American diner meets Italian pizzeria with blistered crust bases and a sloppy centre, while at Voodoo Ray’s you’ll find slices piled high with everything from salt beef, sauerkraut and emmental to artichoke hearts and green olives.

Click here for London’s best pizzerias…

Best places to eat pizza across the UK…

Fatto a Mano, Brighton and Hove

Fatto a Mano brings an authentic taste of Naples to its three restaurants (two in Brighton, one in Hove) with its soft and pillowy wood-fired pizzas. The chefs collaborate with producers in Sussex, and there are regular staff tours of Naples, which inspires ideas such as the pizza topped with fennel sausage, Neapolitan broccoli, chilli, provola, mozzarella and parmesan.

fattoamanopizza.com

Dough & Brew, Warwick

John Martin’s restaurant has reached the finals of the National Pizza Awards three years running. Food aside, much of its appeal is down to the child-friendly approach, including a film club so kids can watch a movie via wireless headphones so the grown-ups can enjoy their meal in relative peace. The wood-fired Neapolitan sourdough pizza toppings range from mac ’n’ cheese to British pulled short-rib beef with caramelised onions, stilton and mozzarella.

doughandbrew.com

The Flat, Exeter

Chloe Whipple and Pietro Chiereghin opened their restaurant in 2017 and specialise in “planet-friendly” vegan and vegetarian versions of northern Italian pizzas. All hand-stretched bases are gluten-free and the kitchen even uses homemade vegan ‘mozzarella’ and ‘parmesan’. Available as small (6-inch) or regular (10-inch), bestsellers include the smoked halloumi, smoked vegan mozzarella, mushrooms, red onion chutney and ground pepper, or the peppers, olives, spinach, mixed nuts and fresh chilli.

theflatexeter.co.uk

Bertha’s, Bristol

Once an engineer for the McLaren Formula 1 team, Graham Faragher and his wife, Kate, started Bertha’s as a street-food business, serving pizzas from a converted canary-yellow Land Rover Defender before opening a bricks-and-mortar pizzeria in Bristol’s burgeoning harbourside food quarter. For Graham, it’s all about a long fermentation for the sourdough – at Bertha’s, it’s between three and five days – and seasonal South West ingredients for the toppings.

The Truffle Shuffle remains a firm favourite with its creamy smoked mushroom and truffle base, mozzarella and mushrooms, as do specials like the Kimcheese – that’s wild garlic and chard kimchi with Devon Blue. “It’s all about the daft ideas,” says Graham, who has also created a number of unusual ice creams at Bertha’s including the Mint Air-Woah (aerated Valrhona dark chocolate churned through fresh mint gelato).

berthas.co.uk

Pi, Dublin

Opened in 2018 by John Savage and Reggie White, a former auctioneer who trained at Ballymaloe Cookery School, Pi is widely regarded as serving the best wood-fired pizzas in the Irish capital. Using ‘00’ flour from Naples and fermenting the dough for 72 hours, the toppings include cheese and charcuterie from artisanal Irish producers such as Fingal Ferguson’s Gubbeen Smokehouse. Pi’s crushed tomato, fresh basil, scamorza, ’nduja, honey, parmigiano reggiano and garlic pizza was voted the best in Dublin this year.

pipizzas.ie

Poco, Leeds

Created by Elvi Drizi, who also runs popular Leeds restaurant Culto, Poco is a small restaurant serving Sicilian street food. In Italian, ‘poco’ means ‘a little bit’ and that is exactly what the restaurant on Kirkstall Road offers, with delicious small bites including authentically Sicilian pizza al taglio served by the slice from large rectangular trays.

All the chefs come from Sicily and they only use authentic recipes and Italian produce in their cooking. The average price at Poco is around £3-4 per portion and its customer base is mostly young professionals and students. Elvi says: “Our aim is to serve affordable and authentic food to the people of Leeds. We keep our prices as low as possible to make our food affordable for our customers – that’s why most of them come to Poco at least a couple of times a week to grab their lunch or dinner.”

facebook.com/pocosicilian

Baked in Brick, Birmingham

What started out as a hand-built wood-fired pizza oven and shed at the bottom of owner Lee Desanges’ garden went on to be a mobile pizzeria in a converted Mini competing in the European Street Food Awards. In 2018, the business upgraded to a permanent restaurant in Birmingham, with dough handmade to a specific recipe of two blends of ‘00’ flour and cooked through in an English-built wood-fired oven.

“Our toppings are all about flavour and sometimes not so traditional,” says Lee, name-checking the Blanco pizza with its béchamel sauce, oak-smoked chicken, sautéed rosemary potatoes and rosemary oil, and the wood-fired squash, roasted courgette and crispy kale.

bakedinbrick.co.uk

Paesano Pizza, Glasgow

Something of a Glasgow institution, Paesano Pizza claims to be the first to bring authentic, traditional Napoletana pizza to the city, and the original site on Miller Street now has a sibling on Great Western Road. The bases are a hybrid of yeast and sourdough, proven for over 48 hours to produce a light and thin crust on signature pizzas such as the spicy salami, tomato sugo, mozzarella and extra-virgin olive oil.

paesanopizza.co.uk

Scream for Pizza, Newcastle upon Tyne

Scream for Pizza is the brainchild of friends Victoria Featherby and Alex Walker, who met back in 2010 while working in the entertainment department of a cruise ship company. They found common ground in a shared love of pizza and in 2014, between contracts, they decided to head to Naples to do a seven-week course in pizza making at Enzo Coccia’s celebrated La Notizia restaurant.

They returned to Newcastle-upon-Tyne and served their creations from a J7 Peugeot, a former French army ambulance turned pizza truck affectionately known as Goldie. In May 2019, they finally opened their first pizzeria in the Sandyford district, although Goldie still makes regular appearances around the city. Scream for Pizza bestsellers include the crab thermidor (which reached the finals of British Street Food Awards) and a deconstructed fried tiramisu pizza.

screamforpizza.com

GB Pizza Co, Margate and Didsbury

After running a successful Wiltshire gastropub, chef Rachel Seed and food writer Lisa Richards started the GB Pizza Co in 2012 in the back of a 1974 VW camper van, touring farmers’ markets and festivals, selling wood-fired pizzas made with British ingredients. A year later, they opened their first pizza restaurant on the seafront at Margate facing the North Sea.

Using only social media to draw the locals to their new venture, more than 100 people turned up to eat their pizzas on the opening night. That evening the “Margate-rita” was born, and it’s still on the menu alongside pizzas like the Full English (yes, bacon, sausage, mushrooms, tomatoes and egg) and The Bath Pig chorizo and chilli, which has been the bestselling pizza since they opened seven years ago. The menu also features a seasonally changing Charity Pizza, with 50p from each pizza donated to the Brain Tumour Charity. It’s a cause close to their hearts as co-founder Rachel sadly died of a brain tumour last Christmas following a long illness.

greatbritishpizza.com

Oscar and Rosie’s, Nottingham and Leicester

Oscar and Rosie’s started as a pop-up six years ago by ex-lawyer Olly Hunter but it’s now a fully-fledged restaurant in Nottingham’s historic Lace Market, with a second site in Leicester. Olly says the intention was simply to bring restaurant-grade ingredients and methods to pizza. To that end, the pizzas feature free-range and locally sourced produce, as well as sauces made from scratch and cheeses grated to order, so “they melt just right”.

The pizzas come in “Famous 14-inch” size or by the metre and stand-out choices include the Cosmopolitan (grand reserve serrano ham with tinned peaches and basil leaves), Boom Chicken Wah Wah (a BBQ base with free-range chicken thigh, award-winning smoked streaky bacon, caramelised red onions and thyme roast mushrooms) and The Checkpoint (butternut squash roasted in cumin and chilli with smoked bacon and fresh sage).

oscarandrosies.com

Rudy’s, Manchester, Liverpool and Birmingham

There are now branches of Rudy’s in Liverpool and Birmingham but it all started four years ago in Manchester’s Ancoats district, often described as ‘Little Italy’. Rudy’s has achieved countless accolades since its conception and was recently named the 10th best pizza in the world by Big Seven Travel.

Following the traditions of traditional pizzaiolos from Naples, the Rudy’s chefs serve old favourites such as marinara and margherita but also daily specials and a wide range of vegan pizzas, all cooked in 60 seconds in the searing heat of the wood-fired oven. Made using San Marzano tomatoes alongside carefully sourced local ingredients, the charm of Rudy’s is its simplicity, complete with stripped back interior, open kitchen and a cool aperitivo bar.

rudyspizza.co.uk

All Day Brewing, Salle, Norfolk

In the village of Salle, the taproom of this award-winning microbrewery run by chef and brewer Miles Anstes serves six seasonal vegan pizzas from its Fermentorium taproom every Friday and Saturday. The 72-hour slow-fermented sourdough bases are made using flour from nearby Letheringsett Watermill (Norfolk’s only flour-producing watermill) and yeasts from the brewery’s organic apple orchards, before being topped with locally grown farm produce and stone-baked in the brewery courtyard’s wood-fired pizza oven.

Pizzas include the Reepham Tiger (ginger-garlic tofu, red peppers, spring onions, coriander, cheddar and spicy peanut sauce) and Spicy Salle (sriracha, chillies, vegan pepperoni and rocket).

alldaybrewing.co.uk

The Cornish Pizza Co, St Agnes, Cornwall

Tim and Fiona Barton create award-winning thin-crust pizzas with a regional twist using stoneground organic flour and Cornish cheeses and charcuterie. The hand-stretched pizzas have names reflecting the area’s rich mining history and are cooked in a stone-based Italian oven. The dough has a fermentation of more than 36 hours and is cooked at 400C for just a couple of minutes.

Tim says: “Some of our favourite pizzas are the ones featuring products from our friends at Duchy Charcuterie. The ’nduja on the Wheal Coates pizza is a fantastic chilli salami that renders down beautifully in the heat of our oven. Our special of Cornish venison bresaola cured in Cornish gin with our locally foraged wild garlic and nettle pesto is also absolutely delicious.”

thecornishpizzacompany.co.uk

Stile Napoletano, Chester

Although he worked as a chef in London before opening Stile Napoletano in Chester Market in 2018, Giacomo Guido hails from the island of Ischia in the Bay of Naples, well known for its sourdough pizzas. Here pizzas include Neapolitan sausage, wild broccoli, mozzarella, smoked mozzarella, fresh chillies and extra-virgin olive oil. Giacomo says: “I use a blend of flours selected by myself, and my dough rises for 48 hours to offer a light and digestible pizza. I think what makes my pizza special is the authenticity, the passion and the knowledge of what I do.”

stilenapoletanopizzeria.co.uk

Words by Mark Taylor

Photographs by Vegan Photographer UK, Emli Bendixen and Helena Dolby

Looking for restaurants in Leeds? Yorkshire’s largest city combines glitzy clubs, bars and Victorian arcades with an arty undercurrent that buzzes with live music, proper pubs and independent shops and stalls such as The Corn Exchange.

Leeds’ food and drink scene has evolved over the years, adapting to the city’s diversity, and it now boasts some of the best independent places to eat and drink in the country. From trendy new-wave coffee shops to craft breweries, casual dining restaurants to street food trucks, Leeds has become a serious foodie hub.

Check out our top places to eat and drink in Leeds…

North Star Coffee Shop & General Store, Leeds Dock – best coffee shop in Leeds

This calm, contemporary glass-fronted space at Leeds Dock (also pictured above) is a hangout for local chefs and business owners on their days off. Gather with friends around one of the large wooden tables or nestle into a cosy nook to enjoy a moment of peace with your coffee.

North Star has travelled the globe to find the best beans in the business, and it rotates its offer of not one, but two contrasting single origin espressos to ensure they satisfy varying taste buds. Baristas use geeky coffee equipment to bring out the best of the beans – delicate Ethipioan coffee is dripped through a Kalita filter and served in a glass carafe, and the toffee notes of the Colombian batch brew is blasted out of a huge jet on the counter. There’s even a tap that provides water in three different temperatures to let loose-leaf Storm teas shine.

The adjoining roastery is a constant flurry of activity, with the state-of-the-art coffee roaster turning away and sacks ready to be filled with the day’s beans and carted off to coffee shops and restaurants across Yorkshire.

Northstarroast.com

Noisette Bakehouse – best bakery in Leeds

North Star has collaborated with Noisette Bakehouse to offer some of the best sweet treats we’ve tried in a long time. There are queues out of the door to bag the first blueberry muffins of the day, and warm custard tarts are to die for. Don’t leave without trying the four-cheese buttermilk scones, made with rye flour to really hold the Parmesan, Red Leicester, Cheddar and cream cheese (and served warm, with proper butter made using acorn dairy milk from the Yorkshire Dales). Or, go for the Morning Cake – so unique that creator Sarah Lemanski has trademarked it. This twist on an American coffee cake has a sour cream cake base with a thin layer of cocoa and tonka bean and a crisp apple streusel topping, dusted with an icing sugar sunshine in a nod to the early riser. 

Sarah was shortlisted for the UK’s best baker in our chef awards…

Noisettebakehouse.com

Eat North – best street food market in Leeds 

Leeds Indie Food’s previously annual two-week food festival has become so popular it’s now a weekly affair, Eat North – a street food market that pops up every Saturday at craft brewery North Brewing Co. in Sheepscar.

The best street food trucks and independent restaurants from Leeds and Yorkshire descend upon the brewery tap each week. Rotating vendors include Manjit’s Kitchen, The Pulled Swine and Tikk’s Thai Kitchen, with sweet treats from Poffertjes King, and coffee from Rabbit Hole Coffee, Laynes Espresso and other city favourites.

With mini festivals such as vegetarian- and vegan-themed VegNorth and special late-opening DJ nights, Eat North is a great way to discover the area’s independent food and drink traders. Here are our favourite street food stalls in the UK.

Northbrewing.com

Laynes Espresso – best café in Leeds

Originally a small espresso bar, Laynes Espresso expanded in January 2017 and now offers an earthy space to relax in with tiled floors, exposed brick and plenty of dark wood.

This trendy coffee shop showcases blends from roasters around the world, as well as the best from London and even the city’s own roaster, North Star (see above). Learn the tricks of the barista trade at one of its on-site workshops, grab an espresso on your way to the station down the round, or sit in and savour the smooth texture of one of the best flat whites in the country.

The all-day food menu includes local classics such as Yorkshire rarebit with Henderson’s relish on caraway-seeded rye toast, and a decadent home-baked ham hock and Doreen black pudding hash.

Take time over one of the exotic dishes on the brunch menu, from shakshuka with dukkah and harissa butter, to sweetcorn fritters with halloumi, chimichurri, poached eggs and pickled chilli. In-house baked goods are to die for – cinnamon rolls, cardamom and almond cake, and coffee cake made with the house espresso – while additional treats from local baking company, Noisette Bakehouse (more info above), plumps up the sweet treat offering with salted caramel brownies and rye flour cookies.

Laynesespresso.co.uk

Best restaurants in Leeds

Poco – for Sicilian street food

Created by Elvi Drizi, who also runs popular Leeds restaurant Culto, Poco is a small restaurant serving Sicilian street food. In Italian, ‘poco’ means ‘a little bit’ and that is exactly what the restaurant on Kirkstall Road offers, with delicious small bites including authentically Sicilian pizza al taglio served by the slice from large rectangular trays.

All the chefs come from Sicily and they only use authentic recipes and Italian produce in their cooking. The average price at Poco is around £3-4 per portion and its customer base is mostly young professionals and students. Elvi says: “Our aim is to serve affordable and authentic food to the people of Leeds. We keep our prices as low as possible to make our food affordable for our customers – that’s why most of them come to Poco at least a couple of times a week to grab their lunch or dinner.”

facebook.com/pocosicilian

Angelica – for a view

On the sixth floor of the Trinity Leeds shopping centre, Angelica has a wraparound planted terrace and panoramic city views. Seats on the terrace are highly prized when the weather allows – it’s the ideal place to relax with a cocktail and a sharing board or plate of fruits de mer.

angelica-restaurant.com

Bundobust – for Indian street food and craft beer

This innovative restaurant and bar combines vegetarian Indian street food with a huge range of craft ales. A bustling place where food is served in disposable bowls with biodegradable cutlery, it offers a casual dining experience with small plates and low prices.

Owners Marko Husak and Mayur Patel have taken inspiration from Gujarat, where Mayur’s family is from, along with the street food vendors of Southern India and Mumbai.

With no curry option, or meat, Bundobust is a world away from old-school curry houses, but dishes such as vada pav (a fried spicy mashed potato ball served in a brioche bun) and bundo chaat (a samosa of pastry, turmeric noodles, yogurt and tamarind chutney) have gained cult status. Try the onion bhajis: aromatic with garam masala and ajwain, filled with lush onion and cauliflower, the batter lifted by threads of spinach.

On the drinks front, this bar provides a platform for independent brewers such as Kirkstall Brewery and Northern Monk, and offers limited edition ales and collaborations. Its menu is succinct, tempting and all-vegetarian, from spicy nuts to massala dosa, a mini crêpe with potato and onion dry fry, lentil soup and coconut chutney.

Click here to read Tony Naylor’s full review of Bundobust, Leeds.

Zucco – for Italian food

Nonna’s polpette and spaghetti; rabbit, pancetta, white wine and potatoes; and almond and raspberry polenta cake – these are just three reasons why locals flock to Zucco, tucked away in one of the leafier suburbs of Leeds.

Run by brothers Rosario and Michael Leggiero, it’s a cool and contemporary place with black and white floor tiles, white subway wall tiles and a beaten tin ceiling.

And if that look sounds slightly familiar to fans of a certain well-known chain, then it won’t come as too much of a surprise that Michael was manager at Polpo’s short-lived restaurant at Leeds Harvey Nichols. Click here to read about more of our favourite Italian restaurants in the UK

zucco.co.uk

Home – for a British tasting menu

Chef owners Mark Owens (Le Gavroche, The Star at Harome, The Box Tree) and MasterChef semifinalist Elizabeth Cottam joined forces in 2017 to create relaxed British restaurant HOME in Leeds. Its 10-course tasting menu, alongside a five-course option available Thursday to Saturday lunchtimes, follows the seasons to showcase British produce. HOME has a strong affiliation with the nearby Harewood Estate, using its venison and rabbits, and produce from its walled garden. The kitchen delivers dishes such as smoked potato salad with heritage tomatoes, rabbit stew with parsnips and black garlic, and caramelised pear and cardamom.

Original parquet flooring, panelled walls and a stone staircase are brightened up with plenty of natural light from skylights and floor-to-ceiling windows. If you want in on the action, request one of the chef’s table seats at the hatch that gives you a view into the open kitchen.

homeleeds.co.uk

Friends of Ham – for Spanish tapas

Pop in to Yorkshire beer, wine and charcuterie specialist, Friends of Ham, for sharing platters and small plates. Choose from the extensive charcuterie list – (here’s how to make your own) – we tried Barbaresco salami from Piedmont, prosciutto from Parma, and popular British bath chaps, made from the pig’s cheek. Small dishes include spicy ‘nduja on sourdough toast with cornichons, traditional Spanish anchovies, and ham hock and black pudding terrine. 

Wines are curated with the utmost care. Take the Renata Pizzulin Clagnis as an example, a subtly spiced, fruity Italian red wine made by a couple as a weekend project in the northeastern Friuli region of Italy. This is what we loved most about Friends of Ham, the care and attention in sourcing the best of the best and serving it unpretentiously in a warm and friendly environment. 

friendsofham.com

Ox Club, The Headrow – for modern British food

There’s a lot to like about Ox Club, a modern British restaurant in Headrow House, a former textile mill built in the early 1900s. It feels and looks great: warm lighting, cool rustic-industrial design. The staff are bright, its craft beer list is unusually interesting and the pricing is keen.

The focal point is the Grillworks grill imported from Michigan – it’s used to cook everything from hanger steak to guinea fowl, hake and razor clams. Expect delicate accompaniments such as buttermilk polenta with tea and molasses brine; creamed flageolet beans with bacon jam; or Jerusalem artichoke with mushrooms and ymerdrys (a Danish sugared rye bread crumb).

Although vegetarian options are limited, the side dishes are all innovative and vegetable-based: try brussels sprouts with bacon and cured egg yolk, coal-roasted beetroot with muscovado walnuts, or kale with chard, cider and golden raisins.

Click here to read Tony Naylor’s full review of Ox Club

Wolf Street Food – for Italian street food

What started out in Leeds has spread south, with Wolf sites now in Reading and London. Manchester and Nottingham are next. It’s on-the-go Italian street food made using predominantly British ingredients, including pasta bowls, salads and piadas (founder Tim Entwistle describes the latter as being “like Italian burritos”).

“We use a piadina flatbread, which is heated on our hot stone, brushed with olive oil and garlic, then filled with marinated meats such as lemon chicken or spicy Italian sausage.”

The twist is that the piadas are then stuffed with some spaghettini, drizzled with hot sauce or freshly made pesto and finished with fresh vegetables, then wrapped up like a burrito.

“Our customers love it – they can tailor them to suit their tastes, whether they want classic Italian with basil pesto and lemon and rosemary chicken; or something different, such as steak and cheesy alfredo sauce. The combinations are endless.”

wolfstreetfood.com

Click here to read about our favourite Italian restaurants across the country

Words by Alex Crossley and Mark Taylor

This week we celebrate Yorkshire Day with web editor Alex Crossley (who also happens to be from Yorkshire!). Alex returns to her home county to explore the independent food scene in Leeds including a lesson in British charcuterie from Friends of Ham as well as matching speciality coffee with Yorkshire-made sweet treats at North Star.

olive magazine podcast ep63 – Leeds independent food scene special

Looking for places to stay in east London? Want a pub-with-rooms in Shoreditch? Read our hotel review, and check out more pubs to stay at here…

The Buxton in a nutshell

A former Brick Lane boozer turned polished pub-with-rooms, reimagined by the team behind Commercial Street’s The Culpeper.

The vibe

The heart of the action occurs in the slickly refurbished Victorian pub, on the ground floor (there are bedrooms and a roof terrace above). Tall, graceful arched windows introduce plenty of light, while a sweeping rosso levanto marble counter acts as a stylish focal point. Pendant lamps hang from high ceilings and polished, ruddy-brown wooden tables, retro stools and mustard loungers add to the mid-century feel. Abundant pot plants (we are in east London, after all) add verdant touches. We arrived late on a Friday afternoon and, because The Buxton does a brisk trade in post-work drinks, the vibe was decidedly buzzier than your typical hotel bar.

With an impressively modest flat rate of £100 per night (including breakfast and a welcome drink) for every room, it’s an astute option for solo travellers who have outgrown hostels, or those looking for a comfortable yet affordable base in this fashionable and often pricey part of London.

Which room should I book at The Buxton?

Bedrooms are on the small side, which is one reason for their affordable pricing. Clever design and attention to detail, however, ensures they don’t feel cramped. High ceilings and original features add space and character while whitewashed walls and smart navy accents lend a fresh and contemporary feel.

There are also plenty of creature comforts: beds are topped with thick, inky-hued blankets, shelves are stocked with coffee machines, fresh milk, water in reusable bottles, homemade biscuits and mini libraries. Bathrooms are equally cosy in size but are well presented and stocked with Bramley toiletries (in larger bottles, which makes them more eco-friendly).

The hotel’s position at the south end of busy Brick Lane means that some street noise is inevitable, including at night; if you’re a light sleeper, ask for a room on a higher floor.

The food and drink

Diners sit at a polished, oxblood-coloured counter that surrounds a compact open kitchen. It’s slightly hectic (you can sit further away, if you like) and punters ordering drinks can crowd into your personal space, so while The Buxton may not be the ideal spot for intimate date-night dinners, the atmosphere is enjoyably lively, and the service is prompt and efficient.

Food is affordably priced, with an emphasis on prime produce and seasonality. Meat (high-welfare native breeds from Swaledale in Yorkshire) is butchered in-house, and fish comes from day boats on the south coast. Simple dishes don’t stray far from British and European classics – the pithy menu covers everything from cottage pie to homemade tagliatelle – but they are well executed and deliver on flavour. Asparagus spears come draped in milky folds of stracciatella, with impeccably crispy, golden polenta chips, while pillowy gnocchi with umami wild garlic pesto has a thick parmesan cheese blanket. Rosy bavette steak, chimichurri sauce and Jersey Royals is perfectly done bistro food. Old-school desserts also impress, from a well-made rhubarb and custard tart to warm, springy doughnuts filled with homemade jam.

The wine list is made up of Old World vintages – we had a mineral chardonnay and a silky malbec – while a short cocktail list riffs on classics. Negroni lovers should try the Red Torch: a spicy, agave-inflected version which sees Olmeca Altos tequila matched with Cocchi Americano vermouth, Averna amaro, Campari and Angostura bitters. Beer drinkers will find the likes of Pravha pilsner and Shandon stout on tap, Sharps Atlantic and Anspach & Hobday pale ale on cask, and Camden Hells, Kernel IPA and Sassy Cidre in bottles. Bar snacks include charcuterie and cheese boards, terrines and rillettes, plus classics such as scotch eggs and chips with aïoli.

Breakfast

Head downstairs for breakfast after a night in the bar and you’ll find the space transformed, and surprisingly serene. Sip local Exmouth coffee while grazing from a continental buffet that includes sourdough toast, homemade jams and granola. Or order a cooked breakfast, including thick-cut English ham with poached eggs, mustard mayonnaise and, best of all, a brick-shaped potato rosti, all golden crispy edges and soft, fluffy interior.

What else can foodies do?

The Buxton’s convenient location in an area thronged with restaurants, shops, markets and bars makes it a base for exploration, rather than somewhere to hide away. On bohemian Brick Lane, you’ll find no shortage of places to eat and drink; try the street’s many curry houses, 24-hour bagel shops (salt beef is a must) plus nearby restaurants such as Lahpet, Blanchette, Smokestak and Sichuan Folk. Good local bars include The Cocktail Trading Co. and Apples & Pears.

Check out more places to eat in Shoreditch here

Is it family friendly?

This is one to visit sans enfants – there’s no lift, which makes negotiating the hotel’s five floors tricky with a pram, and noise from the street might wake children up. Instead, enjoy a weekend spent exploring the city by yourself.

olive tip

If you find the bar downstairs too busy, then take your drink up to The Buxton’s intimate roof terrace. It’s lined with herb beds (used in the kitchen) and has panoramic London views.

Book a room at The Buxton here

thebuxton.co.uk

Words by Hannah Guinness